2017 GTi PP at VIR

[victorofhavoc]

My tire pressure warning system triggered during a session. Right rear. First time that happened. Came in checked and went back out because everything was OK. I’ve had a rear tire go down on the track. Not fun. No way you can hang onto the car.

I have had this happen after the weekend. The warning says tire pressure monitoring system failure. It eventually goes away after a number of resets.

I've had it go off on track once the tires get hot, but mine never says which tire... It just says check all four and reset. After resetting it's fine until the next time they heat up or cold down a lot.

 

[Mini7]

Legit! I love how much fits into the hatch for a DE weekend. I also include a foldable chair and a 10'x10' canopy. I'm really considering getting a little tire trailer with a tool box to make things even easier.

How are you getting on with the nt01 after you got used to them?

I bought a harbor freight trailer for my Mini when I put in a harness bar and removed the space for my track wheels. I need to find a tow hitch option for the Gti. Can then carry a few extra spares and creature comforts.

I think I have the tire pressures dialed in for the NT01’s. Not getting the tire roll over and overall wear has improved. Was totally expecting to wear away the grooves on my 2nd DE. Will be interested on how long these will last.

They are quiet compared to the MPS4S. They still don’t give me the feel I am looking for. I’m driving based on judgement of grip vs. what I feel. Still considering running my MP4S for a couple sessions as a comparison. I’m not adding a tune for this weekend like I was planning on. I want to get a better feel for the suspension changes and do not want my driving to get “lazy” with the added hp.

Finally managed to get my data overlaid. Saturday, my times were way off. So checking my video for Sunday, my corner speeds were not far off. Missed a few apex’s here and there. Other than that, lines were where they needed to be. I held back a little and that is likely why i was off on lap times. Next weekend is a 3-day DE, so I willl have time to build speed. Hopefully last weekend has me warmed up a little.

 

[Damfino]

With the GTI, I fold the seats down and throw tires, tools, jack, and stands in the back because it fits. With previous cars, I used a small utility trailer. It worked really well and you hardly knew it was even there.

 

[Mini7]

That is a cool setup.

I found a toolbox that fits nicely between the frame rails of the trailer at Tractor Supply. My plan is to place the toolbox at the front of the trailer and the wheels at the back.

 

[Mini7]

VIR is going to be wet this weekend.

I will need to make some setup adjustments. I have the rear shocks set stiffer than the front at the moment. Likely going to equalize the front and rear to start and also soften the rebound by 3-clicks from the current settings. With the larger rear sway, the car gets loose. I’m expecting the stiffer springs to reduce traction in the wet.

 

[Cliff]

Alignment with Vorshlag Caster/Camber plates

So with the Camber maxed out on either side I got -2.5/-2.4
Caster is 7.8/8 with the ability to add another degree of Caster

Front ride height 26 3/8
Rear ride height 26 5/8

I was shooting for -2.8 degrees of camber. I was not expecting to the ride height to essentially remain the same as stock. I was expecting a 10-15mm drop

I am tempted to try the Vorschlag plates since I am only getting 2 degrees out of the redesigned Ground Control plates. Are they adjustable without removing the struts, in contrast with the Integrated Engineering plates?

 

[victorofhavoc]

VIR is going to be wet this weekend.

I will need to make some setup adjustments. I have the rear shocks set stiffer than the front at the moment. Likely going to equalize the front and rear to start and also soften the rebound by 3-clicks from the current settings. With the larger rear sway, the car gets loose. I’m expecting the stiffer springs to reduce traction in the wet.

I LOVE tracking in the wet (except for the windows open rule, because it wrecks my leather). If you have time or can do it yourself, add some toe in in the rear and it'll help dramatically, even with the stiffness. Toe changes are easy. Dampening adjustment will obviously also work .

 

[GTIfan99]

With the GTI, I fold the seats down and throw tires, tools, jack, and stands in the back because it fits. With previous cars, I used a small utility trailer. It worked really well and you hardly knew it was even there.

I know too many people that have had their utility trailers robbed or swiped at motels. That's why I pile everything into the GTI and take wheels/tires into the room. People suck.

 

[Mini7]

I am tempted to try the Vorschlag plates since I am only getting 2 degrees out of the redesigned Ground Control plates. Are they adjustable without removing the struts, in contrast with the Integrated Engineering plates?

Hey Cliff, I am also running SuperPro’s 018K LCA which is meant to add another .5 degree of camber. But I am riding higher that what you are. The 15-25mm lower ride height you are running should be good for .5 to .75 degrees of negative camber. You can add another degree of caster by setting the caster to the rear setting. This possible to do by lowering the strut, but you are working blind and by feel. Requires a little patience and time but it is doable. Still faster than removing the coilover.

To adjust camber, you just loosen the top three nuts a little and you can slide the coilovers backwards/forwards. I maxed my camber on both sides and you see the results. Left and right was close enough for me not to want to equalize the front camber. I would mark the bottom of the plates with a sharpie, if I wanted a street and track setting. You cannot really see the marks on the top of the pate without a mirror as the plastic cover is in the way. Vorshlag suggests cutting a hole in the plastic cover above the strut. You have opened up your tower holes, so you will have better visibility To the Vorshlag markings.

 

[Mini7]

I LOVE tracking in the wet (except for the windows open rule, because it wrecks my leather). If you have time or can do it yourself, add some toe in in the rear and it'll help dramatically, even with the stiffness. Toe changes are easy. Dampening adjustment will obviously also work .

I have some good toe plates and 034 adjustable rear toe links. Currently running .24 decimal degrees toe in at the rear. I have a chart that converts this into a linear measurement based on the wheel size. My previous rear toe in was .44 decimal degrees, so my current rear toe is about half of what I had before. What do you suggest?

Saturday is calling for .5” of rain. It’s going to be interesting. I have fresh MPS4S and they are great in the wet. I rarely have to give point bys in the wet. Wet track is a great power equalizer. In the wet my car is loose with the stiffer rear sway bar. So got to judge my corner entry speeds correctly. Throttle lift = snap loose

 

[Cliff]

Hey Cliff, I am also running SuperPro’s 018K LCA which is meant to add another .5 degree of camber. But I am riding higher that what you are. The 15-25mm lower ride height you are running should be good for .5 to .75 degrees of negative camber. You can add another degree of caster by setting the caster to the rear setting. This possible to do by lowering the strut, but you are working blind and by feel. Requires a little patience and time but it is doable. Still faster than removing the coilover.

To adjust camber, you just loosen the top three nuts a little and you can slide the coilovers backwards/forwards. I maxed my camber on both sides and you see the results. Left and right was close enough for me not to want to equalize the front camber. I would mark the bottom of the plates with a sharpie, if I wanted a street and track setting. You cannot really see the marks on the top of the pate without a mirror as the plastic cover is in the way. Vorshlag suggests cutting a hole in the plastic cover above the strut. You have opened up your tower holes, so you will have better visibility To the Vorshlag markings.

Ok thanks, I didn't realize you were running the Superpro lower control arms. Those account for the added camber so switching plates would probably not gain me much if any added camber.

Fwiw, I just leave my camber at max all the time. Street driving is not what wears out my tires.

 

[GTIfan99]

Mini7, I did that same thing with my STi, but aren't you getting some significant toe changes as you adjust camber from street to track and vice versa?

 

[Mini7]

At -2.5 to 2.8, I’m not concerned with camber on the street. I have front toe set at zero.

Toe will cause tires to wear. You are correct. As camber changes the toe will change.

 

[Crild]

Currently trying to decide between Ohlins R&T, KW V3, Bilstein B16 (not same price bracket), or MCS setup. I know everyone seems partial to Ohlins so far. Anyone who has/had any of those options able to provide some feedback?

 

[GTIfan99]

At -2.5 to 2.8, I’m not concerned with camber on the street. I have front toe set at zero.

Toe will cause tires to wear. You are correct. As camber changes the toe will change.

If I remember correctly, increasing negative camber moves the toe towards toe out. I also had way more range of adjustment with the STI, with the coilovers I was running, I could get -3.2 and go down to -1.8. I ended up setting the car up with -2.0 for street, with the most toe in that was allowed under factory specs, then ran -3.2 and let the toe out fall where it may. IIRC, it was a 1/4in. But I was only autocrossing it and changed it at the site.

With the mk7, I'm going to try to get -2 to -2.5 with just APR springs, camber plates, and arms if needed and set front toe to 1/16in toe out. Then play with rear toe and camber until I get the car rotating the way I want.