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DIY Footwell lights retrofit - questions

GolfPilot

Ready to race!
Location
Burton on Trent
Anyone managed to do this on a RHD car? I've just removed everything to install my lights and there's no way of getting to that plug on the BCM without some serious dash removal by the looks of it.

I think I'll just settle for tapping into a courtesy light cable and making do with that!

GP
 

Bäsemödel

Go Kart Champion
Location
Lancaster PA
Here is what I found today. I programmed footwell lighting control to show up in the menu. I also ran wiring and sockets awhile back but haven't plugged them in to a power source because I was still looking for the best way to do it. I didn't want to hook it all up to the BCM and ind it didn't work. I was thinking about tying them to the rest of the cabin lighting but I wasn't sure where exactly to do that.

Today, I programmed my rear fog to be a "footwell light" thru OBD11 and it worked!! This tells me that the base BCM can address footwell lights and control them properly. The issue may be with pin C72 where I have read is where you are supposed to patch them.
 

Bäsemödel

Go Kart Champion
Location
Lancaster PA
Good news! Just plugged things in to pin C72 and everything works! Footwell lights that do exactly what they are supposed to do! Honestly the BCM wasn't as hard to access as I thought it would be.
 

kimjoc

New member
Location
spain
Could anyone tell how to access to BCM? You just need to unclip all the bcm or just the plastic module C where are all the conectors?

Please, i just need to acces at pin C72 and I dont know how...

Thanks!!


Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk
 

gopi_rm

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Germany
Footwell lights (front and rear) installed in 2016 Mk7 estate

I have installed the footwell in the front and rear in my 2016 Golf Mk7 Estate/Sportwagon/Variant.

Vehicle model: LHD Germany
Parts used: 5GG 947 409 (LED, 4 Nos) and cable harness already prepared for both front and rear. Bought both cable and LEDs bought together from Aliexpress (Seller: Shop2170016 Store)

Footwell light package:
Footwell light package.jpg

I have not taken pics during installation. So inserted external links wherever necessary and used few pictures from internet for reference.
Courtesy: Respective owners of the images and links

Step 1: Remove the marked panels on the driver side (LHD). Video Link on how to remove hood open handle.
volkswagen-golf-r-mk7-interior-door-panel.jpg

Step 2: Remove the marked panels on the passenger side (LHD)
4pcs-S-Steel-Door-sill-font-b-scuff-b-font-font-b-plate-b-font-Guard.jpeg
2015-Volkswagen-Golf-GTI-interior-from-passenger-side copy.jpg

Step 3: Route the cable across the dashboard to passenger side. The cable should not touch the coolant pipe since the hot coolant passes through it for heating and the heat may damage the cable (and eventually BCM) if it touches the pipe. Tie the cable to any existing cable above clutch pedal module and accelerator pedal module on the driver side, then to anyone existing cable in the centre and then to anyone existing cable on the passenger side.
Centre Console copy.jpg

Step 4: On both driver and passenger side, route the rear cable through side panel with other cables then route it through the carpet as described in DIY guide from mlewando. This is one of the hardest parts in the DIY.

Step 5: Accessing BCM: Refer this post to locate the BCM and it's C connector. It was really hard to access the C connector with hand since there is hardly any gap to insert the hand. Refer this post to unplug the C connector from BCM. Just push the small notch against white clip and pull the white clip down to disconnect the connector plug.

Step 6: Cut the wire tie at the neck of the connector. Take out the two white plugs from the black housing by pressing small clips on both sides of the black housing. The pin numbers are printed in the white connector. Plug the positive wire into the pin 72. Put back the white connectors into the black housing and tie the existing cable harness and the new wire with the black housing at it’s neck.

Step 7: Connect the ground wire to the grounding point (white circular part) on the side panel of the driver side by unscrewing the nut.
Grounding point.jpg

Step 8: Connect all the four lights to the respective connectors

Step 9: Coding Link
This coding does not activate menu in the radio unit. But the footwell light works as expected when headlamp is switched on and whenever interior light is turned on. If anyone has factory coding then please share it.

Step 10: Once it is confirmed that all the four lights are working as expected then mount them in the respective slots. On driver the slot is next to OBD port, on passenger side it is below the glove box towards to right most side and on the driver & passenger seats, the slots are on the bottom towards backside. Do not forget to leave sufficient play for the rear light cables for seat adjustment in front-back direction.

Step 11: Refit all the removed panels

Please feel free to ask me if something is not clear.
 

riambink

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Northern NJ
This coding does not activate menu in the radio unit. But the footwell light works as expected when headlamp is switched on and whenever interior light is turned on. If anyone has factory coding then please share it.

(8)-Interior light; light configuration-Fussraumbeleuchtung
Change value from ‘not installed’ to ‘installed’

This puts the footwell light into the menu. I believe others have also coded in development mode HERE which seems to make the lights work.

Thanks for compiling all this info. I've done the coding and am planning to install the lights in the next few days.
 

gopi_rm

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Germany
(8)-Interior light; light configuration-Fussraumbeleuchtung
Change value from ‘not installed’ to ‘installed’
Thanks for the info. I did this coding and got the menu option but unable to control the brigtness. Could be since I did a workaround coding and not proper footwell light coding.
 

carbon_gecko

Go Kart Champion
Location
texas
Car(s)
2016 GOLf tsi 'S'
So i have done the wiring and coding but I have a issue: using VCDS when long coding byte17 bit 3 I have nothing to select but bit 6 and bit7 (neither are selected so it is all zeros) what digit do I switch to 1 to activate bit 3?
 

DV52

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Australia
So i have done the wiring and coding but I have a issue: using VCDS when long coding byte17 bit 3 I have nothing to select but bit 6 and bit7 (neither are selected so it is all zeros) what digit do I switch to 1 to activate bit 3?
carbon_geko: Hi.

It's done like this:

First, some numbering theory - sorry for launching into techno-speak:

long-code in these modules are expressed as both hexadecimal numbers and Binary numbers (Hex numbers have an equivalent Binary number).

Bytes have 2 x digits when expressed as hexadecimal numbers and they have 8 x digits when written as Binary numbers. Each digit in a Binary number is called a Bit.

A Bit is either 1, or 0 - whereas a each digit in a hex number can be 0, 1, 2.........9, or A, B......F (so up to 16 x different values).

The rule for Hex numbering is the opposite to decimal numbers - meaning that Byte#0 is the pair of digits on the extreme LHS of a hexadecimal number.

However, the rule for Binary numbers is that the right-most digit is Bit#0 - so the left most digit is Bit#7 (yes, this is the same as decimal numbers where the lowest value number is on the RHS).

Second, lets look at your module - You say that your Byte 17 "is all zero" - this means that currently Byte#17 has the Binary number = 00000000. I've highlighted Bit#3 -which is the fourth digit from the right-hand-side (since the right-most digit is Bit#0 - Bit#3 is the 4th digit).

To set Bit#3, the Binary number for Byte#17 = 00001000. This Binary number has an equivalent hexadecimal value = 08.

Third, my suggestion for a way forward with VCDS - The Open controller screen below shows the long-code value of a typical UDS module in hexadecimal numbering. Each pair of digits in the Current coding box is a Byte. Again, the rule for Hex numbering is the opposite to decimal numbers - meaning that Byte#0 is the pair of digits on the extreme LHS of the string of numbers.

So, in VCDS, don't select the long coding helper screen. Instead on the screen below, copy-and-paste the value in Current coding to New coding (of course, use module @ address hex09 and use your long-code values - not the values on the screen).



Then, CAREFULLY count 17 x pairs of digits in New coding from the LEFT hand side to get to Byte 17. The next 2 x digits (i.e. the 18th pair of digits from the LHS - because the 1st pair is Byte#0) will be the hex value for Byte 17 - the value should be "00". Change this to 08 -then check your counting again, and press Do it!

Don
 
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carbon_gecko

Go Kart Champion
Location
texas
Car(s)
2016 GOLf tsi 'S'
carbon_geko: Hi.

It's done like this:

First, some numbering theory - sorry for launching into techno-speak:

long-code in these modules are expressed as both hexadecimal numbers and Binary numbers (Hex numbers have an equivalent Binary number).

Bytes have 2 x digits when expressed as hexadecimal numbers and they have 8 x digits when written as Binary numbers. Each digit in a Binary number is called a Bit.

A Bit is either 1, or 0 - whereas a each digit in a hex number can be 0, 1, 2.........9, or A, B......F (so up to 16 x different values).

The rule for Hex numbering is the opposite to decimal numbers - meaning that Byte#0 is the pair of digits on the extreme LHS of a hexadecimal number.

However, the rule for Binary numbers is that the right-most digit is Bit#0 - so the left most digit is Bit#7 (yes, this is the same as decimal numbers where the lowest value number is on the RHS).

Second, lets look at your module - You say that your Byte 17 "is all zero" - this means that currently Byte#17 has the Binary number = 00000000. I've highlighted Bit#3 -which is the fourth digit from the right-hand-side (since the right-most digit is Bit#0 - Bit#3 is the 4th digit).

To set Bit#3, the Binary number for Byte#17 = 00001000. This Binary number has an equivalent hexadecimal value = 08.

Third, my suggestion for a way forward with VCDS - The Open controller screen below shows the long-code value of a typical UDS module in hexadecimal numbering. Each pair of digits in the Current coding box is a Byte. Again, the rule for Hex numbering is the opposite to decimal numbers - meaning that Byte#0 is the pair of digits on the extreme LHS of the string of numbers.

So, in VCDS, don't select the long coding helper screen. Instead on the screen below, copy-and-paste the value in Current coding to New coding (of course, use module @ address hex09 and use your long-code values - not the values on the screen).



Then, CAREFULLY count 17 x pairs of digits in New coding from the LEFT hand side to get to Byte 17. The next 2 x digits (i.e. the 18th pair of digits from the LHS - because the 1st pair is Byte#0) will be the hex value for Byte 17 - the value should be "00". Change this to 08 -then check your counting again, and press Do it!

Don
Thank you for the help, I check some other sources after reading this( I was off by 1 bit) I had selected ambient cup holders lights installed.
 

Cuzoe

Autocross Champion
Location
Los Angeles
Hey guys,
Just came across this product on Aliexpress. It seems to have some sort of a piggy back so that you don't have to mess with the BCM?...

What are your thoughts folks?

What are you trying to do exactly? This is a piggyback harness to add rear footwells if you already have front ones. It will let you add rear footwell lights without having to modify your existing wiring. Completely reversible , not that there would be a scenario where you would need to reverse this.

All of the footwell lights share one power wire to the BCM. They also share one ground that could be grounded anywhere to any chassis ground point. Adding/removing this harness won't require any changes to coding, just plug and play to give you rears.

Edit: And for a golf, you would need what they call the "big plug" version, as that's the plug we have. And our rear footwells snap into an existing cutout in the front seat pan, so no bracket needed.
 
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Nissanskylinen1

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Toronto
Car(s)
'16 R w/DCC & Nav
What are you trying to do exactly? This is a piggyback harness to add rear footwells if you already have front ones. It will let you add rear footwell lights without having to modify your existing wiring. Completely reversible , not that there would be a scenario where you would need to reverse this.

All of the footwell lights share one power wire to the BCM. They also share one ground that could be grounded anywhere to any chassis ground point. Adding/removing this harness won't require any changes to coding, just plug and play to give you rears.

Edit: And for a golf, you would need what they call the "big plug" version, as that's the plug we have. And our rear footwells snap into an existing cutout in the front seat pan, so no bracket needed.
Thank you so much for this info! I have a golf R with existing front footwell lights so I’m assuming all I do is plug these in to the front lights and run them to the rear seats, correct?
 

Cuzoe

Autocross Champion
Location
Los Angeles
Thank you so much for this info! I have a golf R with existing front footwell lights so I’m assuming all I do is plug these in to the front lights and run them to the rear seats, correct?
Yup, that would be it in your case. You will want to match the bulb types though, LED or incandescent. I believe the stock ones are incandescent but the pictures in the listing look like LED's (listing also has a mention about colors not matching factory fronts but still doesn't mention bulb types). Just remember all the footwell lights are powered by the same output from the BCM so you want similar resistance in all the bulbs. If you have already replaced your stock bulbs with LED's I would just get a another set, that way you know for sure they are match. And if you haven't, would be cheap to just buy a set of four.

For clarity, you would run them to the bottom of your front seats, wiring will follow the existing wiring. If you secure it to that it should ensure you have the needed slack for moving the seat front to back without the wiring getting caught on anything.
 
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