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Macan Brembo owners who track their Golf, pls weigh in.

turbojzrr

Go Kart Champion
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Car(s)
'19 Golf R
Macan BBKs relating to TRACK PERFORMANCE.


I know there is a consolidated Macan Brembo thread with 130 pages of comments and I did actually read all pages over a couple of hours last weekend.

That thread is more about how to do it, but with this thread, I'm more interested to see if you liked it or regretted it.

People get BBK for many reasons and many get it for looks.

However, how does the Macan Brembos on Golfs perform on race tracks? How does it hold up to well known aftermarket options such as the Stoptech ST40 or offerings from Neuspeed in the area of brake fade and pedal feel?

Here are some issues I am wondering about:
- Heat fade / reliability on track
- pad knock back
- pedal feel / ability to modulate

Thanks for any thoughts!
 
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Will_

Autocross Champion
Location
SF Bay Area
Car(s)
2017 GTI S DSG
I switched from a Non-PP setup that I only autocrossed on so don't have the best comparison but I have done 10 track days with the Macan setup now.

Pros:
-Higher, firmer, more linear pedal. Was a little low and soft until I did the OBD11 mods, has been great since. The very first braking application after a little bit can be softer, then it firms up. I do not have RPVs.
-I have only overheated the brakes once at Laguna Seca after multiple hard laps (Ferodo DS2500 pads). No issues at Sonoma or Thunderhill. I say overheated, but it really was barely an issue, the pedal just got a bit softer and longer traveled. So very happy with the performance there.
-Changing pads is very easy if you want to have a dedicated track pad, really only takes a few minutes per side.
-Stock dust steals still looked good after 8 track days, haven't yet had to replace with higher temp seals.
-FCP Euro availability means literally free replacement for rotors/pads, and aside from that there are numerous track-orientated pad options available (Pagid, Ferodo, Project-MU, Powerstop, etc)
-I have found modulating brake pressure fairly easy, but I have limited experience compared to many different brake systems in this area

Cons:
-Slightly uneven pad wear - the leading edge will wear quicker than trailing edge. You could try maybe flipping pads around halfway or something, this was a very minor issue for me though and I left as is until replacement.

Compared to a 6 piston Neuspeed/Stoptech system - those systems will probably be better tbh. The calipers are designed specifically for our platform. However they can be 2-3x the cost. I got my whole setup for $900. For my power level (250whp) and weight (3200lbs), the biggest brake zones I see are 115-40mph. If I was in a 450whp, 3500 Golf R and had to brake 140-40 over multiple laps, yea I'd probably want a 6 piston setup. For the tracks I run and my car though, I think a 4 piston setup is sufficient.
 

DaRock1459

Ready to race!
Location
Norcal
Car(s)
2017 VW Golf R
Installed the Macan calipers last Saturday (no RPVs, currently no OBD11 mods), and Zimmerman rotors (Fcpeuro). I ended up replacing all brake lines to stainless steel while I was at it. Prior to installation, I prepped the calipers pistons and seals with the red rubber grease. Ended up using the Carbotech 1521 pads up front. After install, I tried bleeding the heck out of the macan calipers (also tapped them with a hammer during this process) before performing a full brake bleed on the car.

As Will_ mentioned, the initial braking application was on the soft side, but noticeably firmed up on the 2nd drive. Pedal is now firm and has a much more consistent feel. I'm sure it'll be better when I utilized the OBD11 mods. I'll probably wait a few weeks before I flush the system with Motul brake fluid. So far, it doesn't feel crazy boosted like the stock Golf R brakes could be at times. Can't comment on it's full performance as I barely bed the brakes Sunday. I'll try to post an update after more miles on the brakes.

They definitely look fancy though...
B60450E0-C158-4ECA-A279-A04C0B590593.jpeg

CAF95C2A-0E98-40E9-A134-C782C33FEB16.jpeg
 
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AceHammer

Go Kart Champion
Location
NY USA
Car(s)
2015 A3
For the cost, they can't be beat for track performance. You're looking at 900 dollars vs 2.5k+ for a MK7 specific BBK. I've put them through the paces now on my A3 which is heavier than a GTI without issue. If you are going hardcore track mode then yes a 6 piston MK7 specific kit will be better. If it's a daily that sees occasional track use you should be fine. That close to 2k can be spent making your car a lot faster elsewhere.

Red rubber grease and OBD11 pretty much fixes the initial soft-pedal that people get with these. It's still there the tiniest bit and RPV would probably fix it, but you get used to it real fast.

I've run them at Watkins now paired with PP rear brakes, the pedal is definitely easier to modulate than compared to the stock floating caliper. Not to mention the calipers are lighter as well.
 

pseudorealityx

Go Kart Champion
Location
Decatur, GA
Car(s)
2017 GTI SE
I've got ~6 track days on mine. Raybestos ST-41 pads.

The soft pedal is a thing, even post OBD11 mods. I want to the RPV's, but haven't bought the parts yet.

I've never compared directly against the other BBK's out there, so I cannot comment to that question.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
I've got ~6 track days on mine. Raybestos ST-41 pads.

The soft pedal is a thing, even post OBD11 mods. I want to the RPV's, but haven't bought the parts yet.

I've never compared directly against the other BBK's out there, so I cannot comment to that question.

My soft pedal resolved with RRG and repeated bleeding. For some reason, these seem tough to bleed well.
 

turbojzrr

Go Kart Champion
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Car(s)
'19 Golf R
My soft pedal resolved with RRG and repeated bleeding. For some reason, these seem tough to bleed well.

Curious what is RRG? is it the red grease for the pistons?

Thanks a lot everyone for chiming in. Some were complaining about pad knock back issues, and I suppose this has to do with floating pistons too? And hence the RPV would resolve it?
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
Curious what is RRG? is it the red grease for the pistons?

Thanks a lot everyone for chiming in. Some were complaining about pad knock back issues, and I suppose this has to do with floating pistons too? And hence the RPV would resolve it?

Yes, RRG is Red Rubber Grease.

The brembos will have some knock back is an issue with these type of Brembos, happened with the 4 pot Brembos on my STI on track, but you aren't getting knock back on the street, which is what some are reporting. They are not, it's just the weird VW ABS.
 

turbojzrr

Go Kart Champion
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Car(s)
'19 Golf R
Yes, RRG is Red Rubber Grease.

The brembos will have some knock back is an issue with these type of Brembos, happened with the 4 pot Brembos on my STI on track, but you aren't getting knock back on the street, which is what some are reporting. They are not, it's just the weird VW ABS.
I’ve been reading up on pad knock back a bit more and it turns out that almost all track calipers have this problem even with full on group 2 race cars.

seems like driving technique adaptation (the pre-braking priming) is the most common “fix” on YouTube. Some have said that if you keep residual pressure, it will affect the top speeds in the straight and hence many race teams did not use aggressive anti-knock back springs or residual pressure valves.

So perhaps in that regard, the Macan’s are not going to be that different compared to stoptech etc... most of the videos I’ve seen online where people are talking about knockback are in fact on these extremely expensive braking systems.
 

GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
I’ve been reading up on pad knock back a bit more and it turns out that almost all track calipers have this problem even with full on group 2 race cars.

seems like driving technique adaptation (the pre-braking priming) is the most common “fix” on YouTube. Some have said that if you keep residual pressure, it will affect the top speeds in the straight and hence many race teams did not use aggressive anti-knock back springs or residual pressure valves.

So perhaps in that regard, the Macan’s are not going to be that different compared to stoptech etc... most of the videos I’ve seen online where people are talking about knockback are in fact on these extremely expensive braking systems.

All the above is 100% true, but most of the people complaining aren't experiencing knock back, they're experiencing "I didn't bleed in accordance with the fractory manual and these calipers are kind of a pain to get all the air out".
 

Half fast

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Jersey City
Car(s)
Mk7 GTI
I've only done one event with these calipers and don't have any issue with a soft pedal. I did the OBD11 stuff, but my father has an R with these calipers he put on track without the coding mods and he said he didn't have a soft pedal either. I'll join those who are saying the issue is improper/incomplete bleeding.

For whatever it's worth, I'm not sure what the factory manual on bleeding is, but to get all the air out I just cracked each bleeder and tapped (not hammered) on the caliper with the same wrench I used to crack the bleeders. I'd see a few bubbles come out, close things back up, put some miles on and repeat. Did that probably three times, and the pedal is rock hard. That might be somewhere in the 130 pages on the thread regarding install but I honestly can't be bothered to read all that. Also, that was actually the method in the factory service manuals for Porsche way back in the day I'm told. It doesn't take much air at all to give you a soft pedal so even the tiniest bubbles make a difference.
 

pseudorealityx

Go Kart Champion
Location
Decatur, GA
Car(s)
2017 GTI SE
My soft pedal resolved with RRG and repeated bleeding. For some reason, these seem tough to bleed well.

The more I think about it, the more I think I have some knockback issue. The pedal, once it engages, isn't all that soft. Because yes... I've bled these a lot.
 

bobivy1234

Go Kart Champion
Location
Greensboro, NC USA
Car(s)
2016 VW Golf GTI
I know this is an old thread but I just tracked these this week with Raybestos ST-43 up front and Powerstop Track Day spec on the rears. I think I either bed these in wrong or am using the wrong fluid but after about half way in my first session, I must have overheated something because I got pretty bad front vibrations only during braking for the rest of my two HPDE days, got better as the days went on but still very noticeable. Also got some brake fade at end of sessions with ATE200 fluid, RS3 deflectors and heavily trimmed dust shields. I use Powerstop Z26 on the same rotors for the street and think my issue is not using a dedicated rotor set so the existing material is probably screwing up the race pad.

As far as the initial pedal feel of the calipers, after first install and bleed it was pretty loose but then driving them on the street for 2 weeks and doing another power bleed, pedal feels firm along with the typical OBD11 tweaks. No RRG or RPV used, just SS lines and the Zimmerman blanks. On track, the pedal was firm for the 1/2 half of sessions and bite was almost immediate.

From a track perspective coming from PP brakes and Ferodo DS2500, these definitely had the bite I'm looking for but with the heavy front vibrations and stuff it still isn't confidence inspiring. Not sure if getting 2-piece rotors and/or Motul 660 fluid would help in those regards from a cooling perspective. Most likely I'll just get new front rotors dedicated to the Raybestos and bed them in again very specifically to spec as this is now hindering consistent lap times at the track and just want a solid/stable brake experience.
 
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