Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
yep
7
Precision race works MPI install
- Thread starter railroader
- Start date
daconchslop
Autocross Champion
- Location
- SC
- Car(s)
- ACS SE/Tech
That is the power feed for the e-sensor harness. If you aren't using an e-sensor then that purple wire, the grey wire and the black ring connector is not needed.
staying_tuned
Drag Racing Champion
- Location
- Poconos
- Car(s)
- 2016 Mark 7 Golf R
no harm installing the grey wire though? ECU work is already done and I’d hate to pull it now.
Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
its fine
That purple wire they have you install below the RED one. There is another empty fuse slot there. It is for the ethanol sensor, as is the black round ground cable and grey ECU pin.
I hear it is to be used if tuned by UM Flex-fuel but I imagine it works with other E-sensors as well. You might as well install it, unless you plan on using that fuse slot for something else.
Completed my Euro manifold and MPI install today. Started Friday night and hacked away at it all weekend as time allowed.
My big tips are: watch the Humble Mechanic's video on the intake manifold removal. Skip the 10mm triple square removal for the manifold bracket. I have a Majesty intercooler, and it would have been a huge mistake to remove that bolt. Just crank the manifold release stud to drive the manifold upwards when you are done. Pay attention to removing the manifold with his provided rotation. It is required because of the cam position sensor and stock HPFP fuel line. Took me a minute to figure that out. Reinserting the manifold is an act of patience as well.
The biggest tip I have. Wiring into the stock ECU and fuse block. Everyone complains about this. And rightfully so. The big thing is to back the stock tape (Tesa/Tessa tape by the way; can buy a new roll for super cheap) off 4-6 inches. My plan of attack was to get the hardest pin seated first, and insert all of the pins from the same side of the harness.
I seated Pin 50 / the blue wire first. It was definitely the hardest. The insulation has a tendency to displace and make insertion really hard. PR uses a larger gauge of wire to help with strain relief for insertion so you don't break the contact off the wire. This makes any distortion to the insulation cause interference when inserting the pin/wire. "Make it round" and move slow. It will insert.
I moved onto Pin 71 / the grey wire next. Was a touch easier. Then onto pins 45/46. Super easy. Then onto pins 25 then 24 in that order. Maybe it was just my harness, but I didn't want to fight a thing. The harness ended up setting up super clean off the stock harness.
I pinned the MPI power/12V off of the recommended connector in the fuse panel. It is a purple wire (more majenta/pink than anything). The ethanol wire/terminal is the pastel purple (lavender or what ever your eyes tell you). I pinned that next to the MPI power/12V. In that order. I also trimmed the fuse panel "front cover" to allow a smooth path for the wires to enter and route to their location. There was no way I wasn't going to rip them out of their set or "depin" them if I forced the cover on.
That is all I got to say about that. Holler with any questions.
My big tips are: watch the Humble Mechanic's video on the intake manifold removal. Skip the 10mm triple square removal for the manifold bracket. I have a Majesty intercooler, and it would have been a huge mistake to remove that bolt. Just crank the manifold release stud to drive the manifold upwards when you are done. Pay attention to removing the manifold with his provided rotation. It is required because of the cam position sensor and stock HPFP fuel line. Took me a minute to figure that out. Reinserting the manifold is an act of patience as well.
The biggest tip I have. Wiring into the stock ECU and fuse block. Everyone complains about this. And rightfully so. The big thing is to back the stock tape (Tesa/Tessa tape by the way; can buy a new roll for super cheap) off 4-6 inches. My plan of attack was to get the hardest pin seated first, and insert all of the pins from the same side of the harness.
I seated Pin 50 / the blue wire first. It was definitely the hardest. The insulation has a tendency to displace and make insertion really hard. PR uses a larger gauge of wire to help with strain relief for insertion so you don't break the contact off the wire. This makes any distortion to the insulation cause interference when inserting the pin/wire. "Make it round" and move slow. It will insert.
I moved onto Pin 71 / the grey wire next. Was a touch easier. Then onto pins 45/46. Super easy. Then onto pins 25 then 24 in that order. Maybe it was just my harness, but I didn't want to fight a thing. The harness ended up setting up super clean off the stock harness.
I pinned the MPI power/12V off of the recommended connector in the fuse panel. It is a purple wire (more majenta/pink than anything). The ethanol wire/terminal is the pastel purple (lavender or what ever your eyes tell you). I pinned that next to the MPI power/12V. In that order. I also trimmed the fuse panel "front cover" to allow a smooth path for the wires to enter and route to their location. There was no way I wasn't going to rip them out of their set or "depin" them if I forced the cover on.
That is all I got to say about that. Holler with any questions.
Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
Different batches.
Navi
Autocross Champion
- Location
- BK/NYC/Hamptons
blue is placebo
red will take you to the truth
you only need to install the red one
red will take you to the truth
you only need to install the red one
Thanks guys
Did you end up using one of the aftermarket kits or just swapped injectors and kept everything else stock?
I ordered a euro manifold complete and wondering if I can get away with just ordering a set of matched 925cc injectors and PR harness or need to shell out for the whole kit, thicker lines, etc.
(will be installing LPFP, hybrid, and getting a tune after, don't care about flex).
Thx
You don't need bigger lines with a hybrid, though you may need a T fitting and retaining clips for the euro rail. This is the setup my usual shop recommended, they've got another mk7 guy using the full euro setup with id1050x's and it's working great.
My car is ROW so I already got MPI. I only change injectors and change MPI feed line. ROW cars have MPI feed line from HPFP so I will plug that feed and use APR tee to connect MPI before hpfp
Thx gents - good to hear, will keep my engine bay looking stock (and save a few $$).
I read somewhere about drilling a larger hole in the HPFP fitting which feeds the MPI line (applies to ROW HPFPs only) - not an option? Or is there more than just that hole that controls pressure to the MPI (vs DI) rail?