MK7 "Random / "Stupid" Questions Thread"

[uberdot]

Looks like dried coolant.

Thermostat housing?

 

[Diggs24]

Probably somewhere up top along the hardline.

 

[uberdot]

Probably somewhere up top along the hardline.

Thanks Giorgio, found the source (I think). There’s a fluid pool in my new manifold cover:

Hose feels tight and no signs of holes or moisture at the seals. Guess I’ll start here and see if it persists.

 

[uberdot]

Also looks bad back here:

 

[Diggs24]

 

[DrFunkalupicus]

Here's my dumb question for the day...I recall reading somewhere on here that on the DSG equipped models, we need to push the brake pedal down further at a stop to make sure the clutch disengages...any truth to this or have I been mashing my foot down after I am stopped for no reason?

 

[Dog Dad Wagon]

Here's my dumb question for the day...I recall reading somewhere on here that on the DSG equipped models, we need to push the brake pedal down further at a stop to make sure the clutch disengages...any truth to this or have I been mashing my foot down after I am stopped for no reason?

There’s some truth to it. You should be able to feel it though. Like - just come to a stop with the DSG and at the very moment the car comes to a complete halt, pay attention to the feeling of the DSG disengaging. If you feel any resistance, or see the RPMs jump, then its trying to re-engage, meaning you need to press down a bit further.

In general, the DSG takes some getting used to by the driver. You have to learn how to work with its function. You’ll notice when braking that the DSG downshifts, and you FEEL that downshift in the form of moment-changes of increased braking force, with out any accompanied increase in brake pedal pressure. You learn to modulate the brake very smoothly to work with the downshifting. It saves your brakes so much. I traded my June 2015 build date 2015 GTI S DSG non-PP in this year with 95K miles on factory brakes, with another 20-30% pad life in them.

 

[maxwell]

Hey All, 2018 GSW 4motion 6mt with APR stg 1 91. 32k miles.

Last afternoon after a slow creep out of my neighborhood, as im turning onto the main road i get the 'christmas tree' on the dash, much in the same way that you would with a battery reset. (ESC error, TPMS, airbag, etc)

I quickly pulled over, and restarted the car. it all went away.

My OBD11 is in the mail, but carista showed a ton of codes. I am thinking voltage dip due to aging batter (2+ year old car, likely 3 yr old battery) and I know they can be finicky. Any thoughts here from experience? I hope its not a steering wheel clock issue, but ill drive around more to sort it out.

Time for a red top battery?!

Looking forward to OBD11, long overdue. But i'll advise once i get a proper scan on it tomorrow.

 

[jimlloyd40]

Here's my dumb question for the day...I recall reading somewhere on here that on the DSG equipped models, we need to push the brake pedal down further at a stop to make sure the clutch disengages...any truth to this or have I been mashing my foot down after I am stopped for no reason?

Yes you just have to press the brake pedal a little firmer.
Let up slightly on the brake pedal and you'll see the RPM 's rise a little as the clutch is engaging.

 

[Dog Dad Wagon]

Curious why go IS38 at that point? IE stage 2 on 91 is 243 HP/344TQ @ Crank and 221/313 at the wheel - This is based off 155HP/195TQ Crank & 141/178 stock at the wheel on their dyno. You can flash back to stock with their dongle (UM and APR require dealer visits), so you just need to swap DP every few years for smog.

I'm currently stuck picking between UM, APR, and IE for my 1.8T tune. I'd love to go IS20 or 38, but California Smog seems to limit that. APR it seems you can go IS20 without a DP tune according to their website, or at least the Dyno charts as someone else pointed out. UM would be nice, but don't think will fit beyond Stage 1, shot Frank @ UM an email to get more info on their emissions. APR may work up to an IS20, and IE for $700 I can just send it Stage 1, and upgrade to 2 for 100 bucks more once I get an TMIC and DP upgrade.

I'm specifically keeping in mind this guy is talking about running a fully emissions-compliant DP (so an OEM R would be his only option) on a 1.8 block without VVT on the exhaust valves and in a place where the average elevation is over a mile above sea level.

APR's IS20 stock-DP file makes 260WHP/297WTQ measured by APR in Tennessee. That same file would likely make closer to 245 or so in Colorado, and would be making some adjustments for the DA.

So with those numbers in mind, 280-290 AWHP/300-310WTQ on a conservative IS38 tune on an emissions-compliant OEM Golf R DP on a 1.8 block at 6K+ DA is a pretty reasonable, and safe number for someone who wants an 85-90% increase in power over stock (146AWHP/184WTQ)

 

[Desslok]

 

[swcrow]

I really want to take a class to teach me how to disassemble and assemble an engine... seriously. Where could I take one OR is that more part of larger automotive tech classes?

I’m serious too...I want to do a complete profession change

 

[jimlloyd40]

I really want to take a class to teach me how to disassemble and assemble an engine... seriously. Where could I take one OR is that more part of larger automotive tech classes?

I’m serious too...I want to do a complete profession change

Go to a trade school.

 

[swcrow]

Go to a trade school.

See that’s my issue.... if it’s regular school hours, I still gotta work

 

[uberdot]

I really want to take a class to teach me how to disassemble and assemble an engine... seriously. Where could I take one OR is that more part of larger automotive tech classes?

I’m serious too...I want to do a complete profession change

If I could make what I make now doing that I would too. Also good Mad Max skill to have.