Want more front camber? Powerflex Bushings is the Answer!

[scrapin240]

Hey All,

I go to the track on occasion and wanted more front camber. I had the Superpro top mount and Superpro Lower Control Arms, and the Tyrol Deadset kit. One of the bushings on the Superpro arms was broken and they warrantied it with a replacement. With that setup I was able to get to -2.5 Front Camber.

I wanted to try a different setup, so I priced out the CSS knuckles, and it was getting expensive replacing all the parts for it, and it was taking a long time, so I looked at different solution which I haven't seen tried yet.

I used my factory arms and replaced the front bushing with the Powerflex PFF85-501G. I installed the race version, but there is also a street version.
Here is the link: https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/p...amber-adjustable-2876?category=1887#attr=1539

I also installed a new LCA rear bushing while I was there, PFF85-802BLK, the black is the race, and there is also a street version. https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/p...rm-rear-bushings-1375?category=1887#attr=2318

With the superpro top mount and the front camber bushing on the stock arms, i was able to get -2.9 L and -2.8R. There is no noise penalty. It is a little more bumpy, less compliance, because of the race stiffness, if you were to get street, I think that would be great too.

I will also be trying to use the Eurosport Front Top mounts and see how that combo works in the near future.

Hope this helps someone out there, as so many have helped me out.

 

[bfury5]

Ran the front ones on my car, they were good for +0.5deg of camber. I ended up wearing them out, but while they lasted they were great.

 

[scrapin240]

Ran the front ones on my car, they were good for +0.5deg of camber. I ended up wearing them out, but while they lasted they were great.

what were the indicators that they were worn out?

 

[bfury5]

what were the indicators that they were worn out?

If I lifted the front end, I could rock the entire control arm front and back (similar to what a wheel feels like when the tie rod end goes bad). The poly was moving around the metal core (poly had ovalized)

 

[scrapin240]

If I lifted the front end, I could rock the entire control arm front and back (similar to what a wheel feels like when the tie rod end goes bad). The poly was moving around the metal core (poly had ovalized)

Do you know how many miles about or track time before they wore out? Just want to have an idea. Swapping the control arms/dropping the subframe was not very much fun.

 

[krs]

Did you buy new control arms for this, or press out/press in into your current arms?

 

[GTIfan99]

Hey All,

I go to the track on occasion and wanted more front camber. I had the Superpro top mount and Superpro Lower Control Arms, and the Tyrol Deadset kit. One of the bushings on the Superpro arms was broken and they warrantied it with a replacement. With that setup I was able to get to -2.5 Front Camber.

I wanted to try a different setup, so I priced out the CSS knuckles, and it was getting expensive replacing all the parts for it, and it was taking a long time, so I looked at different solution which I haven't seen tried yet.

I used my factory arms and replaced the front bushing with the Powerflex PFF85-501G. I installed the race version, but there is also a street version.
Here is the link: https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/p...amber-adjustable-2876?category=1887#attr=1539

I also installed a new LCA rear bushing while I was there, PFF85-802BLK, the black is the race, and there is also a street version. https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/p...rm-rear-bushings-1375?category=1887#attr=2318

With the superpro top mount and the front camber bushing on the stock arms, i was able to get -2.9 L and -2.8R. There is no noise penalty. It is a little more bumpy, less compliance, because of the race stiffness, if you were to get street, I think that would be great too.

I will also be trying to use the Eurosport Front Top mounts and see how that combo works in the near future.

Hope this helps someone out there, as so many have helped me out.

View attachment 230656View attachment 230657View attachment 230658

How hard were the front LCA bushings to install. I have a set in my office waiting to go on the car

 

[burgerkong]

Did you get the offset rear position bushing as well? I was planning on getting the front adjustable camber bushings, but without the offset bushings to cancel out the caster decrease, it is to me a 'one step forward, one step back sorta thing'.

 

[scrapin240]

How hard were the front LCA bushings to install. I have a set in my office waiting to go on the car

I couldn't use my press for the camber/front one due to the angle/plane of the arm. I used a ball joint kit instead.

The rear one was only difficult because I didn't have a large enough "holder" for the bushing to be pressed out.

All in all it wasn't terrible, but longer than I originally allocated, which is par for the course for me.

The hardest part is dropping the subframe and getting the arms back in to lineup.

Did you get the offset rear position bushing as well? I was planning on getting the front adjustable camber bushings, but without the offset bushings to cancel out the caster decrease, it is to me a 'one step forward, one step back sorta thing'.

I did. I didn't get a caster reading on the alignment, so can't tell what I ended up with.

 

[scrapin240]

Did you buy new control arms for this, or press out/press in into your current arms?

I used my original arms

 

[bfury5]

Do you know how many miles about or track time before they wore out? Just want to have an idea. Swapping the control arms/dropping the subframe was not very much fun.

I think I had maybe 2500 miles and 4 events on them before they wore out. I also drove them really really hard, so take my experiences with a grain of salt

 

[bfury5]

How hard were the front LCA bushings to install. I have a set in my office waiting to go on the car

Aside from getting the LCA in and out, whatever ball joint press you can rent will pop the OEM bushings out in 30sec, and new ones slide right in. I'd recommend throwing a sharpie mark on the metal part of the bushing where the adjustment tool goes to have a reference. Marked it so that sharpie line bring horizontal = max camber

 

[scrapin240]

Aside from getting the LCA in and out, whatever ball joint press you can rent will pop the OEM bushings out in 30sec, and new ones slide right in. I'd recommend throwing a sharpie mark on the metal part of the bushing where the adjustment tool goes to have a reference. Marked it so that sharpie line bring horizontal = max camber

At the alignment shop I tried to get more from the -2.8 side, but adjusting the camber bolt only went down to -2.7 after a bunch of turns, and it affected toe more than camber. I think there's a lot of wiggle room if it's not totally pointing to the middle.

 

[krs]

Hey All,

I go to the track on occasion and wanted more front camber. I had the Superpro top mount and Superpro Lower Control Arms, and the Tyrol Deadset kit. One of the bushings on the Superpro arms was broken and they warrantied it with a replacement. With that setup I was able to get to -2.5 Front Camber.

I wanted to try a different setup, so I priced out the CSS knuckles, and it was getting expensive replacing all the parts for it, and it was taking a long time, so I looked at different solution which I haven't seen tried yet.

I used my factory arms and replaced the front bushing with the Powerflex PFF85-501G. I installed the race version, but there is also a street version.
Here is the link: https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/p...amber-adjustable-2876?category=1887#attr=1539

I also installed a new LCA rear bushing while I was there, PFF85-802BLK, the black is the race, and there is also a street version. https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/p...rm-rear-bushings-1375?category=1887#attr=2318

With the superpro top mount and the front camber bushing on the stock arms, i was able to get -2.9 L and -2.8R. There is no noise penalty. It is a little more bumpy, less compliance, because of the race stiffness, if you were to get street, I think that would be great too.

I will also be trying to use the Eurosport Front Top mounts and see how that combo works in the near future.

Hope this helps someone out there, as so many have helped me out.

View attachment 230656View attachment 230657View attachment 230658

I was only able to eek out -2.5° with mine, was hoping closer to what you were able to get.

Question, did you notice more engine vibration feel with this done?

I’m feeling more vibration, at a stop, in neutral while giving it a rev. Not sure if it’s because of these, or if something else is up.

 

[GTIfan99]

I was only able to eek out -2.5° with mine, was hoping closer to what you were able to get.

Question, did you notice more engine vibration feel with this done?

I’m feeling more vibration, and a stop, in neutral while giving it a rev. Not sure if it’s because of these, or if something else is up.

Ride height could account for the static difference.