Which coil overs are best for my situation

[scrllock]

I just looked at the OBD11 screen, there are two options, the basic setting, that I have done seven times in the past, and the “ calibration of synchro points”.
I never did that one, but guess I can try that one now. Do you know if it’s OK to do one without the other? Or am I supposed to do one, then the other?

those are meant to be done after you've changed something in the trans, either a rebuild or fresh fluid. if running basic settings when the trans is warmed up doesn't help, i would expect to have it torn apart and inspected.

 

[up4speed]

those are meant to be done after you've changed something in the trans, either a rebuild or fresh fluid. if running basic settings when the trans is warmed up doesn't help, i would expect to have it torn apart and inspected.

Oh boy, definitely the news I didn't want to hear, when I'm trying to decide to plunk money into performance mods. It makes no sense to do all the mods and repairs if the bill comes out to 1/2 of the cars total value!
When I replaced the fluid, I did the basic setting, but not the Calibration of synchro points. But then again, It was having the problem before the fluid change, and there was no change after the fluid change + the basic settings.

 

[tigeo]

I just looked at the OBD11 screen, there are two options, the basic setting, that I have done seven times in the past, and the “ calibration of synchro points”.
I never did that one, but guess I can try that one now. Do you know if it’s OK to do one without the other? Or am I supposed to do one, then the other?
I’m thinking that maybe I should also try the dynamic start assistant, and set it too “early”, to see if that maybe helps. I’m not sure if that eliminates the creep function, so when I let go of the brake, it won’t move until I give the car throttle. If so, that will probably fix the problem. I like it better that way anyway. I’m used to it because my other double clutch transmission cars don’t creep when I let go of the brake. They drive more like manual transmissions, which I prefer.

I've run both of those apps before, it's fine.

On the dynamic start assist, no clue, my peasant car doens't have that feature. Not creeping/engaging clutch when releasing the brake would be strange in an auto to me. That works like the hill assist then, come to a stop on an incline, release brake, will hold without engaging clutch for a few seconds until you touch the gas pedal.

 

[up4speed]

I've run both of those apps before, it's fine.

On the dynamic start assist, no clue, my peasant car doens't have that feature. Not creeping/engaging clutch when releasing the brake would be strange in an auto to me. That works like the hill assist then, come to a stop on an incline, release brake, will hold without engaging clutch for a few seconds until you touch the gas pedal.

I just ran the calibration of synchro points. So far it's perfect, but as you know, in this situation, that's meaningless.
I know there are other threads on this exact problem, but I don't remember reading about any solution. The good news is that I think it's just an annoyance, I don't think it means complete failure of the transmission.

 

[tigeo]

I just ran the calibration of synchro points. So far it's perfect, but as you know, in this situation, that's meaningless.
I know there are other threads on this exact problem, but I don't remember reading about any solution. The good news is that I think it's just an annoyance, I don't think it means complete failure of the transmission.

I have found that my DSG is v. smooth when I've changed the way I release the brake (engage the clutch), a slight release for it to start engaging, a slight pause, then a slow release the rest of the way before going to the gas, this takes less than a second at this point with muscle memory but smooth as can be.

 

[up4speed]

I have found that my DSG is v. smooth when I've changed the way I release the brake (engage the clutch), a slight release for it to start engaging, a slight pause, then a slow release the rest of the way before going to the gas, this takes less than a second at this point with muscle memory but smooth as can be.

I guess if this fix doesn't hold long term, I'll try doing that every time to see if it solves it.

 

[tigeo]

I guess if this fix doesn't hold long term, I'll try doing that every time to see if it solves it.

It's just a simple relearn, not sure if you've read through this thread of mine but this is what made me make the slight change. I think it's just the sensitivty to prevent a stall if it doesn't like whatever it measures to figure out how to engage the clutches.

https://golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/dsg-jumping-out-of-gear-on-take-off.377958/

 

[up4speed]

It's just a simple relearn, not sure if you've read through this thread of mine but this is what made me make the slight change. I think it's just the sensitivty to prevent a stall if it doesn't like whatever it measures to figure out how to engage the clutches.

https://golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/dsg-jumping-out-of-gear-on-take-off.377958/

Thanks, I read through the thread already. It seems that we have the same exact problem.
By the way, back to suspension, I'm making a list of parts needed, and I was trying to find the Power Grid front stabilizer bar links. I can't seem to find them anywhere. Does anyone have a part#, or even better, a place I can order from?
If I can't find those, I will probably get the ECS ones. Are those any good, or should I avoid those? I like that ECS is giving a life time warranty now.

 

[scrllock]

is your DSG tuned? are you just running a JB4? I would definitely ditch the JB4 and if you want more power, get matching ecu/tcu tunes. the dsg needs to know how much torque it needs to handle without a piggyback or an under-reporting ecu tune in the way.

 

[up4speed]

is your DSG tuned? are you just running a JB4? I would definitely ditch the JB4 and if you want more power, get matching ecu/tcu tunes. the dsg needs to know how much torque it needs to handle without a piggyback or an under-reporting ecu tune in the way.

I just have the JB4 at this point. I have used it reliably for a few years and a dozen track days, and it's been fine (so far, lol).
However, I'm not using one of the pre set maps. I am using Map 6. I followed all of the safety parameters while logging the runs and examined all the graphs.
Then I did about 6 or 7 adjustments to the tune between each run. I watched the graph, and made sure that there was no timing pull at any point. Once it seemed good, I picked the hottest day, around 90 deg. and did another run, and cut back the boost again at the RPM's that created any timing pull. My goal was to have a little bit of a safety net. So while I may not be maximizing boost, I wanted to retain reliability if possible.
I don't know if I did the right thing, but it's working so far, and the car is running strong. I also adjusted it so it is as linear as possible. I tried to mimic the stock feel, just stronger. I'm not sure if a standard programmable tune is better, but so far, I can't complain.
If I went with a regular tune for ECU and TCU, what brand is the most reliable?

 

[scrllock]

If I went with a regular tune for ECU and TCU, what brand is the most reliable?

honestly I don't think any of the off the shelf tunes are ideal, they're either aggressive with boost/timing or skew too lean or too rich. specifically for a bolt-on GTI, I'd probably say stratified, since their main faults are skewing rich (fine for track) and not doing great with custom setups (not an issue with literally the most common mk7 setup).

 

[geokilla]

If I went with a regular tune for ECU and TCU, what brand is the most reliable?

IE is good for the ECU tune but their DSG tune is not for me. I hate how it holds gears and shifts in regular city driving. Their DSG tune is much better for the 7 speed DSG according to my friend who has a friend with the DSG tune for his MK7 GLI. If I was going to get a new tune, I'd get Unitronic. It's generally more conservative but their DSG tune is supposed to behave better.

Anyways we're way off topic.

 

[up4speed]

honestly I don't think any of the off the shelf tunes are ideal, they're either aggressive with boost/timing or skew too lean or too rich. specifically for a bolt-on GTI, I'd probably say stratified, since their main faults are skewing rich (fine for track) and not doing great with custom setups (not an issue with literally the most common mk7 setup).

That's the reason that I did the JB4, and graphed everything to make sure it didn't lean out, or have too much boost causing timing pull.
However, as a disclaimer, I'm not a professional tuner (I was just going by the advice of George at the company that makes the JB4), and I'm sure I wasn't able to duplicate every scenario. So who knows how reliable it's going to be. It's really a gamble at this point, lol.

 

[19birel]

JB4s are fine if setup properly, just not ideal. I ran one for a bit on the GTI, and have had one on my A4 for years, currently stacked on a flash tune.

That said, I would probably still get a TCU tune so the clamping pressure etc. is all adjusted to cope with the extra torque.

 

[Handguns4heaRTs]

buy a dedicated track car. dual duty cars are solely an exercise in compromise. I bought an e46 m3 to replace my GTI's track duties, and have never looked back (even if the m3 is heavier and slower haha)