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3D Printer & C.A.D. Thread

DSC808

Autocross Champion
V2.0 coming soon. Plan is to stick it to the glass part and flow into the deflector. As soon as I figure out how to use OnShape.... 😂
IMG_0703.jpeg
 

dtfd

Autocross Champion
I need to see if there are any maker shows in Texas.

Also, I wanted to share what I've been making to give away to the kids for Halloween. I'm aiming for about 100 jack-o-lanterns and I'm currently at 65. Going to also print witches hats for half of them and glue them on.

The skulls are all my failed prints thrown into silicone molds. They came out better than I expected. Still need to play with temp and length of time in the toaster oven but now I know what to do with my failed prints. Figured I can do this every year and give them to all the kiddos that come by on Halloween. We have a few kids that can't eat candy or can't have that much so I figured this would be a cool non-candy treat.

I'm thinking of turning one of medium skulls into a shift knob for my beetle as these are pretty dense and can probably take a threaded insert.


Question on those silicon molds and those skulls.

Did you create the molds yourself or did you buy those molds?
I assume you're using a small oven/not your home cooking oven. What temperature has been successful for you?
What filaments are you throwing in these molds? Is it just PLA or PLA/PETG/ABS mixed?
Some skulls have more air holes than others. Are you doing anything to minimize air pockets like shredding the used filament before throwing it into the mold, or is there a method you've used to get more of the air pockets out?
 

AzteCypher

Go Kart Champion
I bought the silicone molds on Amazon. - https://a.co/d/8pysuS1

I bought a used toaster oven at Goodwill that worked very well. I set it up on my patio so as not to annoy the family with any smells that might occur. I hovered around 320F or so because if I went higher than that, the filament would bubble up and not give me as smooth a finish. This is what introduced most of the bubbles. It did take longer to melt the filament but I got better results. I tried stirring the molten filament in the mold but it just resulted in a sticky molten mess so I abandoned that idea. If a bubble formed at the top, I would try to pop it and add a bit more filament to the hole and let that melt in.

I would check the mold in 20min intervals so I could add more filament. I would definitely play around with temp and time as it will vary based on the oven/toaster oven that you use. In my opinion, temp and time were more beneficial in reducing the number of air pockets in the mold.

I chopped up the filament as best as I could with tin snips and wire cutters (diagonal cutters). I looked into using a blender or a food processor but everything I read online didn't convince me it would work like I had hoped. Those filament processing devices would be great but I didn't want to spend the money on that as this was more of fun thing to try out.

I only had PLA at the time that I attempted the skull molds.

The small purple skull at the far right was the first one I attempted. I think I went up to 400F which resulted in all those air pockets. The purple, red, and blue skull next to it was my last attempt. I had more or less gotten the temp and timing down by that point. It still had a few air pockets towards the bottom and back, but nothing like my previous attempts.

I will say that this eats up more filament than I expected and that the skulls get real dense. I was planning on keeping one for myself to try and turn into a shift knob but my family and the in-laws liked them so much I gave them all away.
 

dtfd

Autocross Champion
So I started a 30 hour print and wondered, do I actually have enough filament on this roll?....yea ill be fine.

Here's what I woke up this morning, only about 30% of the way through the print.

....talk about being way off the mark
 

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GolNat

Autocross Champion
What was the slicer estimate for the filament? I usually find it’s pretty accurate. I like the rolls that have the gradients on them so you can get an idea of what you have on the spool.
 

dtfd

Autocross Champion
What was the slicer estimate for the filament? I usually find it’s pretty accurate. I like the rolls that have the gradients on them so you can get an idea of what you have on the spool.
How do you know how much filament is left on the roll if the roll doesn't have those cutouts with estimates on them? I have some rolls that have cuts in the side with marks denoting roughly how much filament is at this point. The roll I was using has none of that, there's no cutout to see how far down the roll you are.

I guess I could have thrown it on a scale and subtracted an estimated weight for the filament roll, instead I just (wrongly) eyeballed it. I have a brand new roll of the same PETG so I'm printing a new calibration cube to make sure I can get away with the same settings and I'll just restart the print.

If anyone needs 4 ikea lack risers that are exactly 31mm tall.....i got them :ROFLMAO:
 

GolNat

Autocross Champion
I do what you do a take a WAG (wild ass guess). I have a few spools that have no windows and they are annoying to estimate.

I was off the other day but the print paused and I was able to load more filament and continue on.

I have a few random spools with not much on them that I was going to weigh like you said. Most of my printing is done with Jessie filament so I was gonna get an empty tare and use a small kitchen scale to get an estimate. That’s probably the most accurate way.

I have not done a 30 hour print 😬
 

GolNat

Autocross Champion
I really want to get a MK4 or Bambu Lab printer but don’t want to drop the money.
 

dtfd

Autocross Champion
I do what you do a take a WAG (wild ass guess). I have a few spools that have no windows and they are annoying to estimate.

I was off the other day but the print paused and I was able to load more filament and continue on.

I have a few random spools with not much on them that I was going to weigh like you said. Most of my printing is done with Jessie filament so I was gonna get an empty tare and use a small kitchen scale to get an estimate. That’s probably the most accurate way.

I have not done a 30 hour print 😬
Had I listened to the smarter voices in my head I would have gone through the effort of breaking apart the STL I found into 4 separate files and printed the risers one at a time. Had done that I would have one complete riser done right now, instead of 4 at ~30% and a whole bunch of wasted filament, though I guess I can use the risers since I'm making a 3 level lack printing station.

I started intending to do an enclosure but I've decided I'm going to keep it to PLA and PETG. I'm still going to print all the enclosure files so if in the future I decide I do want to start using ABS all I'll need to do is buy the acrylic to enclose everything.

30 hour prints are a way of life when you're printing at 50mm/s. I'd like a fancy new printer that do quality prints at 6 times that speed, but here we are.
 

GolNat

Autocross Champion
The lack enclosures are really cool, that’s the route I was gonna go. Printing one at a time is a good idea.

I ended up putting my printer that I used only for PLA in an enclosure because it was so cold in the basement. Corners kept coming up. I almost prefer an enclosure for all filaments.
 
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AzteCypher

Go Kart Champion
I tried using the BTT filament runout sensor but I was not happy with it. Felt like it was a waste of money honestly. I had to open it because the wheel was too tight within it and it would cause my filament to drag. I kept getting false positives with it but I eventually worked through that. I think it's just easier to weight the remaining filament and make an estimate.

I'd like to buy the X1 Carbon but... that's a lot of dough to throw at a hobby... as I buy more parts for the R. LOL!
 

DSC808

Autocross Champion
I use this as my enclosure. Good enough.
 
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