No bolt-ons on the DSG, right?
same bolt ons but 11.8 vs 12.5.
no tcu tune. 115 is on pace with a lot of the stage 2 cars on drag ladder.
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No bolt-ons on the DSG, right?
I chose a custom tune from United Motorsport, mainly for the Flex Fuel option, and have no complaints.Hi everyone I just joined this group and wondering what is best tune for my 2016 golf R. Friend recommended to go with Cobb since he has it and it’s very compact and easy to set up and use and can be removed anytime and plus u don’t have to deal with shops. Just trying to get one that will give best results overall. Thanks
Are you talking buying a used car that has been put back to factory settings?If you just bought your car you could already have a tune on it that's not activated. That would be what I checked first. If you car still has any factory driveline warranty left on it I
would have the car checked out very carefully before thinking about tunes. You might need it, even if it's only for a few months.
I recently got my golf R and almost immediately tuned it to stage 1+ through unitronic. I couldn't be happier with it. The car pulls all the way up to 7000rpm now and I absolutely smoked a 2019 M4 comp on some backroads in North Carolina. Honestly, any prominent and reliable tuning company you go through will be fine. its just gonna come down to personal preference. Cobb is nice though because you have the access port.
This is the biggest factor for me because while it's good to have a plan in terms of your bolt ons and what you want to do with the car my vehicles rarely follow my intended plan.I recommend you look at what you want to do with the car. Are you going to track the car? If so brakes need some attention. CAI? Intercooler? What other mods are you planning. Goals? Many have recommended EQT, great tune loaded via a Cobb AP. A real advantage here is the ability to log data and have the tune optimized for your setup. EQT tcu tune highly recommended as well. Stage 1 tune is biggest bang for the buck and suitable for street driving and an occasional canyon run.
I could go on but my point is think about what you want out of the car and research the path. His platform has much support and many good options. Another thought is dealer support. APR must be done through dealer. For me that is a 100 mile round trip. I have run several APR tunes and they are not bad. My EQT custom tune is much smoother all across the rpm band.
If you are 100% sure you are going to tune, I'd get the clutch first and as soon as you have the money. Break-in can be long, but you'll be happy you already got it taken care of.This is the biggest factor for me because while it's good to have a plan in terms of your bolt ons and what you want to do with the car my vehicles rarely follow my intended plan.
Right now I have a Borla Cat-Back and IE intake. These two items were definitely not my planned first upgrades but my Dad bought them for me (how you gonna say no). I've been reading lots of threads new and old on different opinions. My main concern is I have a manual. I only have 8K miles but I know once I get any tune the clutch is on borrowed time. So really I need to be prepared (have the money) to do both within 6 months.
it’s worth it. You can get 9/10ths of the way there or better w a jb4 on the R. GTIs don’t respond quite as well for whatever reason.
I had not really considered that before but that's seems like good advice.If you are 100% sure you are going to tune, I'd get the clutch first and as soon as you have the money. Break-in can be long, but you'll be happy you already got it taken care of.
Driving on a slipping clutch and then having to wait the 500-1000 miles for proper break after you've been tuned is frustrating.
None of that mattered to me after someone let me sit in a stage 2 R lolI had not really considered that before but that's seems like good advice.
All my cars previous to the R have always been older and higher mileage. I have replaced the clutch's and driven with a slipping clutch a multiple times in my life. The idea of coming out of pocket for a new one with such low miles is something i'm still coming to grips with.
The stock clutches in these cars can be really awful anyway. I don't think many hold stage 1 for long.I had not really considered that before but that's seems like good advice.
All my cars previous to the R have always been older and higher mileage. I have replaced the clutch's and driven with a slipping clutch a multiple times in my life. The idea of coming out of pocket for a new one with such low miles is something i'm still coming to grips with.