Boosting on a Budget- 19birel's MK7.5 Build

[scrllock]

it makes like no difference, and helps water go where it's supposed to, rather than closer to your ECU.

 

[19birel]

Did removing that hose make more wooshies? Asking for a friend.

Not really haha, the difference is pretty negligible

 

[19birel]

Sit rep: So progress has been a little slow as winter has decided to make an appearance

Wasn't even commuting in the car let alone doing pulls so I tidied up the garage and parked it inside hooked up to a trickle.

That said slow progress is still progress! Overall things have been smooth, outside of a small hiccup (shout out to Diggs for lending a hand there). Tonight after a week or so of being parked up, I was able to finally pull the car out and test out my latest revision. According to simos tools I'm now up to 392hp and 343 lbs ft of torque (tq limited to save stock clutch).

Now unfortunately conditions haven't been ripe for a Dragy run but looking at the data from the logs, a 60-100 time of ~4.8secs I'm thinking I'm within the ballpark of a 60-130 in the upper 10sec range. If that's true I'd be quite pleased; still dialing things in though, so hopefully by the time I'm able to do a Dragy run I'm rolling on even more power

TLDR: Car feels damn fast and it's poised to get faster even on this intentionally neutered tune haha

 

[19birel]

Okay so the other day I finally went out and got a Dragy run and the results were rough, 13.5secs which seemed almost implausible...what was odd was that my 6-100runs that I datalogged were 4.8-5secs and the Dragy was telling me 5.8. Now my Dragy is probably 4ish yrs old and I noticed maybe 2yrs ago that when it got low on battery the accuracy tanked (likely due to me leaving it affixed to my windshield ez pass style in direct sun 24/7). I have been fully charging it before every use since then, but I guessed the issue just got worse and ordered a new Dragy. Tonight I went back out and did a 11.8 sec run with a 5sec 60-100. Not quite where I wanted but in the ballpark, I wasn't crazy!

Now what do I need to do to get into the 10s? Well I found a video where a guy runs a 10.9 in a stock 10R80 S550 Mustang GT, I decided to use this as a benchmark to determine where I'm losing time. My Dragy on the left, the crappy picture of my screen is the Mustang lol


60-100, it's dead even, 100-110 I lose a staggering 0.74, 110-120 I lose ~0.2, and 120-130 we're even.

Those familiar with the 6MT (or saw the dip in the accel graph) know that the 3-4 gear change happens in the 100-110 range where I lost the most time. I've been granny shifting to be kind to the clutch, but I think I'm being a little too kind to it lol. How much of that delta a faster shift will eat up I'm honestly unsure, but I'll try for another run next time I'm at the mexican test track and see what that yields before making further tune changes.

For reference, according to the logs, hp is ~404 and tq still the same 340ish.

Edit: forgot to mention that I replaced the RS7 plugs with the APR plugs I had purchased. The gaps of the RS7 plugs were all either out of spec or on the cusp. The APR plugs are another heat range colder than the RS7s

 

[Diggs24]

Shift and the corresponding boost drop that it has to recover from is the difference. NLS will solve most of that.

 

[19birel]

Shift and the corresponding boost drop that it has to recover from is the difference. NLS will solve most of that.

Admittedly I'm a little scared to try that on a stock clutch haha

 

[Diggs24]

Hasten the end of that POS. Full send.

 

[Diggs24]

If you need help setting it up in the tune LMK.

 

[19birel]

Hit a little milestone over the weekend, 30k miles! Didn't expect to drive this car as much as I have haha


Had one botched attempt at getting a 10.9 (forgot to shut off tc like an idiot lol) but will revisit eventually.

Also trying to shift my focus a little bit to track season prep so I'm not scrambling to get the car setup last minute. Tentatively, I think my first event will be Mid-Ohio with AutoInterests in mid-April so I've got some time. Here is my to-do list

-Brakes: Rear pads and rotors need replaced, fronts should be fine (likely to upgrade though after Mid-O), flush fluid.

-Tyres: The tricky question! I'm currently between 3 options, Nankang CR-S, Bridgestone RE71RS, and Accelera 651 Sport Xtra
The Acceleras are particularly enticing because of the price- $600/set is nearly half the cost of the CR-S and 2/3rds of the Bridgestones. The Xtras are a 100TW version of the 651 sports, but are reportedly more comparable to most 200TW tyres. if I'm not mistaken @tigeo liked the regular 651sports so my wallet and I are tempted haha

-Clutch: Considering DKM Stage 2 (440 wtq), Spec Stage 2+ (450 ft lbs), ECS Stage 3 (450 ft lbs). Trying to avoid a six puck friction disc as I get the impression that might deplete drivability. Worst case I have to do the first event on this clutch, I think I'll be fine with this tune, but if I can avoid risking it I will. Gotta find a shop I trust for the install too as I have no desire to attempt on jack stands in my driveway.

-VAQ diff service

 

[scrllock]

-Tyres: The tricky question! I'm currently between 3 options, Nankang CR-S, Bridgestone RE71RS, and Accelera 651 Sport Xtra
The Acceleras are particularly enticing because of the price- $600/set is nearly half the cost of the CR-S and 2/3rds of the Bridgestones. The Xtras are a 100TW version of the 651 sports, but are reportedly more comparable to most 200TW tyres. if I'm not mistaken @tigeo liked the regular 651sports so my wallet and I are tempted haha

CR-S or RE71RS if you want to be fast. CR-S if you want more value out of them, Bridgestone if it might be wet. The acceleras wear super quickly. Definitely need camber to avoid poor wear. Pace-wise their 100TW is like a normal 200tw track tire and the 200tw sports are more like a 300tw max perf summer.

 

[tigeo]

Hit a little milestone over the weekend, 30k miles! Didn't expect to drive this car as much as I have haha


Had one botched attempt at getting a 10.9 (forgot to shut off tc like an idiot lol) but will revisit eventually.

Also trying to shift my focus a little bit to track season prep so I'm not scrambling to get the car setup last minute. Tentatively, I think my first event will be Mid-Ohio with AutoInterests in mid-April so I've got some time. Here is my to-do list

-Brakes: Rear pads and rotors need replaced, fronts should be fine (likely to upgrade though after Mid-O), flush fluid.

-Tyres: The tricky question! I'm currently between 3 options, Nankang CR-S, Bridgestone RE71RS, and Accelera 651 Sport Xtra
The Acceleras are particularly enticing because of the price- $600/set is nearly half the cost of the CR-S and 2/3rds of the Bridgestones. The Xtras are a 100TW version of the 651 sports, but are reportedly more comparable to most 200TW tyres. if I'm not mistaken @tigeo liked the regular 651sports so my wallet and I are tempted haha

-Clutch: Considering DKM Stage 2 (440 wtq), Spec Stage 2+ (450 ft lbs), ECS Stage 3 (450 ft lbs). Trying to avoid a six puck friction disc as I get the impression that might deplete drivability. Worst case I have to do the first event on this clutch, I think I'll be fine with this tune, but if I can avoid risking it I will. Gotta find a shop I trust for the install too as I have no desire to attempt on jack stands in my driveway.

-VAQ diff service

My review/commentary on the 651s. A good budget lapping tire, not the fastest, wears like iron. I had fun on these, I'm not a TT person or was trying to get insane lap times. You can see my buddy in a white MK8 R that I am on track with....he's running the 651s and having a good time with pretty reasonable lap times at VIR (<2:20).

 

[tigeo]

CR-S or RE71RS if you want to be fast. CR-S if you want more value out of them, Bridgestone if it might be wet. The acceleras wear super quickly. Definitely need camber to avoid poor wear. Pace-wise their 100TW is like a normal 200tw track tire and the 200tw sports are more like a 300tw max perf summer.

Not my expeirence at all, wear like iron b/c they aren't super soft/not really a true 200. I only got rid of mine after 8 track days b/c I corded the left rear due to alignment being off (toe out). Same experience with my buddy with the MK8 R in the video above.

 

[19birel]

CR-S or RE71RS if you want to be fast. CR-S if you want more value out of them, Bridgestone if it might be wet. The acceleras wear super quickly. Definitely need camber to avoid poor wear. Pace-wise their 100TW is like a normal 200tw track tire and the 200tw sports are more like a 300tw max perf summer.

I have -2 camber up front iirc, so I'm hoping that will be enough to promote decent tyre wear. I assume you mean the 100TW version is the one that wears quickly?

My review/commentary on the 651s. A good budget lapping tire, not the fastest, wears like iron. I had fun on these, I'm not a TT person or was trying to get insane lap times. You can see my buddy in a white MK8 R that I am on track with....he's running the 651s and having a good time with pretty reasonable lap times at VIR (<2:20).

Good info! I had some 240TW Toyos last season and it sounds like pace wise the 200TW version might be similar but probably far more consistent (the Toyos liked to get greasy)

 

[tigeo]

I have -2 camber up front iirc, so I'm hoping that will be enough to promote decent tyre wear. I assume you mean the 100TW version is the one that wears quickly?

Good info! I had some 240TW Toyos last season and it sounds like pace wise the 200TW version might be similar but probably far more consistent (the Toyos liked to get greasy)

I had a good time on the 651s. They make a lot of noise. My Nexens are better but it doesn't diminish the fact these 651s are little over $400. The VIR crew in the grid told me as I lined up for my session when I was running these that they could hear me coming through Hog Pen and always thought it was someone spinning out...nope...just the guy in the wagon sending it. I have some out-of-car video of my buddy in the MK8 on these and you can hear them screamin!

 

[scrllock]

I have -2 camber up front iirc, so I'm hoping that will be enough to promote decent tyre wear. I assume you mean the 100TW version is the one that wears quickly?

Good info! I had some 240TW Toyos last season and it sounds like pace wise the 200TW version might be similar but probably far more consistent (the Toyos liked to get greasy)

Friend of mine roasted the 200tw in a weekend with -2.4, 0 toe. Down to the belt on the outer edge.