Detailing for dummies: I'm the dummy-Wash mitts have entered the chat; possibly other things you stick your hands into!

[golfdave]

Two cars one bucket????... ..

I used to be all AutoGylm......now all Gtechniq..as I got the car ceramic coated 7yrs ago...& the detailer who did is AM Details & he's a Rupes instructor...& IDA instructor...loads of good training & info on his website & FB page...


AMDetails - Detailing Products - Chemicals - Accessories - Rupes – AMDetails Limited

 

[gixxerfool]

Rinseless washes

I have a bottle of the ONR(?) I believe. I’ve used it. With mixed results and an impending drought, I thought it would be topic to visit.

What’s a decent mix ratio?
Any special process when trying to use it?

Discuss

 

[riceburner]

rinseless wash is not a good idea and i'm not sure why you would want a rinseless wash.

in a perfect scenario, i think the idea would be that all dirt particles both get trapped in the wash suds, and carried all the way off the panel, so that all you need to do is dry afterward. However that is just too perfect a scenario to hope for, therefore you will marr your surfaces by doing it (Eventually, anyway).

drying aids though.. (insert drake dabbing)

 

[riceburner]

had some pretty good results with adam's 'swirl killer' and a small assortment of orange hexlogic pads and progressive polishes (that break down as you use them).

before:

DURING

half and half

After

 

[riceburner]

Also did my golf recently, largely the same routine. A few notables:

For the fiero, the process was much easier because the car had never been waxed or sealed prior, so it was 'right to work'. The golf had many layers of sealants on it, which don't simply come off despite my multistage wash, clay, decon, strip wash, alcohol prep. You gotta polish through sealants (especially graphene infused and ceramic sealants!)

The VW's have pretty hard paint. But also i was hardpressed to find swirls like almost ever on this car, so the whole process was mostly to settle down the orange peel a hair, restore a tad more clarity and seal it with adams' pro graphene sealant as i did with the fiero.

Well mission accomplished, and both cars are so easy to wash now, and i can dry them off 90% with a leaf blower!

 

[bentin]

rinseless wash is not a good idea and i'm not sure why you would want a rinseless wash.

in a perfect scenario, i think the idea would be that all dirt particles both get trapped in the wash suds, and carried all the way off the panel, so that all you need to do is dry afterward. However that is just too perfect a scenario to hope for, therefore you will marr your surfaces by doing it (Eventually, anyway).

drying aids though.. (insert drake dabbing)

Snicker. I've used ONR for nearly two decades, on solid black cars no less. Its awesome stuff and I wouldn't use regular wash methods again unless I was dealing with something that was especially dirty on the undercarriage. Provided you wash properly, a two bucket method, start at the top and work your way down and wash the wheels and fender liners last, it's great stuff.

 

[riceburner]

good to hear, but like, why use it? why skip the final rinse? whats the point, to save some water (maybe if you're in california)? or am i missing something?

 

[bentin]

good to hear, but like, why use it? why skip the final rinse? whats the point, to save some water?

It has a dumb name, you still rinse, just not with as much water. I use two mostly full buckets with grit guards, so figure around four gallons in the wash bucket. You dry as you go too, which actually helps if you have less than perfect water, or don't filter it. The only time I really use extra water is when using iron decontaminant, that stuff is awful to work with and needs extra rinsing. I tend to do that before claying, so just use an extra bucket for all of that rinsing.

 

[bentin]

I used Optimum Opti Coat years ago, I grabbed some GTechniq Crystal Serum Light for the R and their wheel coating for the Apex wheels. Looking forward to trying newer stuff, the Opti Coat was definitely tricky in high humidity. With LED inspection lights, it was really hard to get it haze free on a white metallic car.

 

[riceburner]

ah, thanks for the info. i must have taken the name at face value but i know what you're talking about now!

Well, i will say a few things about the adams advanced graphene coating
https://adamspolishes.com/collections/ceramics-graphene-master/products/graphene-ceramic-coating™-advanced

it goes on easy, and creates a rainbow slick/tracer as it cures to aid in wiping it level and off. however even when being extremely careful and thorough, when i was all done with both the fiero and the golf, i pulled them outside and gave a very slow workaround to make sure none was left over - if you leave it curing on the surface for more than ~2 hours you pretty much have to polish the area to remove the high spot.

But so far i'm very happy with the result in terms of surface slickness. it claims to have a lower angle of water beading and appears true based on my experience. I dry the car off with a leafblower and towel in a few spots now. Still use a wet microfiber with some drying aid or quick detailer sprayed on, but largely removes that extra step of touching the surface during routine maintenance washes.

 

[bentin]

Wait, did you just make fun of ONR and then admit to using a leafblower?!

 

[bentin]

And yeah, most ceramics have a super fast cure time, two hours seems to be the upper limit and even mechanical polishing won't level them.

 

[riceburner]

Wait, did you just make fun of ONR and then admit to using a leafblower?!

didn't make fun of it, just questioned it at face value. but yes i suppose i did? haha. i'm not perfect, i'm sure i can imagine some scenario where the leaf blower is attracting particulates in the air and throwing them at the paint work, and if i touch the surface with a towel afterward i am subject to the same marring i prescribed the ONR. Gotta say though, blowing off the wheels, crevaces, etc after - great!

I do have an airforce master blaster too, but it doesn't really do much.

 

[bentin]

didn't make fun of it, just questioned it at face value. but yes i suppose i did? haha. i'm not perfect, i'm sure i can imagine some scenario where the leaf blower is attracting particulates in the air and throwing them at the paint work, and if i touch the surface with a towel afterward i am subject to the same marring i prescribed the ONR. Gotta say though, blowing off the wheels, crevaces, etc after - great!

I do have an airforce master blaster too, but it doesn't really do much.

Something's gonna marr the paint, right? I dealt with a Jet Black BMW for way too long. I don't like metallic paints, but they sure hide imperfections better. I'm pretty excited to make the change from Pure White to Lapis, just for the easier maintenance.

 

[Maiden69]

rinseless wash is not a good idea and i'm not sure why you would want a rinseless wash.

Snicker. I've used ONR for nearly two decades, on solid black cars no less. Its awesome stuff and I wouldn't use regular wash methods again unless I was dealing with something that was especially dirty on the undercarriage. Provided you wash properly, a two bucket method, start at the top and work your way down and wash the wheels and fender liners last, it's great stuff.

I have used ONR for a few years now, it works, if used properly. You're not going to use it on a car you just drove through the mud, and I always use a pressure washer to "pre-clean" the car before ONR. The big difference between ONR and soap is that soap don't do anything other than suspend the dirt particles, they can still scratch the car. ONR encapsulates the particles in the polymer, this is why it won't create marring if used properly. With that said, the most marring created on any type of wash is done while drying the car.