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Fender Subwoofer "cheap and easy" review

S

SweetJones_29

Ready to race!
Location
Dallas
Any chance of making these boxes to sell?
 
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BxGTI

BxGTI

Go Kart Champion
Location
Bronx,NY
LA KINGS said:
You got a build write up by any chance?
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I don’t, sorry my friend made it for me in one , we just went to Home Depot for materials,mine is not as fancy as the OP but the box was designed so that you could lift it and take the spare out without removing the box itself. It’s about 2 years old now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
J

Jozooka

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Bucks County, PA
Shortybdub said:
Good stuff there!!

Could you show the connections and/or explain how to incorporate the OE plug? Seems if you have the plug, then there isn't a need for those wire connectors on the outside of the box. But what do I know :D.

Oh, and can you tell us which shallow mount you used?
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The plug on the left is the factory sub connection from the car, and the plug on the right with the yellow wires is what I made with the VW parts noted in the first post. This allows you to use the factory plug and quickly disconnect or pop back in the Fender sub as needed.


For wiring, quoting the Vortex thread, "the two white wires are positives and the brown wires are negatives. There is a yellow stripe on one of each color to distinguish which belong together as a pair."

PRO TIP (that I didn't know): Home Depot sells 16-gauge speaker wire by the foot in the electrical section. When you're picking up your MDF or plywood, grab 3' for inside the box to connect the speaker to the terminals. It was .52/ft at my local HD.

This is the sub I used: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_36297_Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R2SD2-10.html
 
shortyb

shortyb

Autocross Newbie
Location
Upstate SC
Car(s)
Felon Taxi,Dad Wagon
Jozooka said:
The plug on the left is the factory sub connection from the car, and the plug on the right with the yellow wires is what I made with the VW parts noted in the first post. This allows you to use the factory plug and quickly disconnect or pop back in the Fender sub as needed.


For wiring, quoting the Vortex thread, "the two white wires are positives and the brown wires are negatives. There is a yellow stripe on one of each color to distinguish which belong together as a pair."
Click to expand...

Makes sense now. I was thinking the plug with wiring would go directly to the driver and would negate the need for separate terminals. I do like the terminals on the side for another means to disconnect.


Jozooka said:
This is the sub I used: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_36297_Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R2SD2-10.html
Click to expand...

Nice. Thought it might be an R/F due to the shape of the logo and this confirms.
 
K

kri$han1

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Toronto
Brilliant!

I find myself using that space to shove the rear-deck-cover in there, but I guess I can always stand it up behind the driver's seat, like I used to with my mk6...

Can you post the model number and specs of the sub? Not sure what voice coil impedance it needs... I'm assuming its DVC?

edit: just found your link, sorry, for reference: 400W peak, 200W RMS @2 ohms per voice coil, dual voice coils.
 
I

ILoveButter

Ready to race!
Location
Worshington
StealthGTI said:
400W is for everything. I don't think I've ever seen anything more specific than that. If I had to guess, I'd say 50W/channel to the doors/tweets and the remaining 200W for the sub.
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That's exactly what how i thought the power was going.

It's going to be hard to find a sub I'll like in that power range. Currently I have a 1500w 45lb sub in my jeep, defiantly not going to get the precision from a dinky sub.
 
J

Jozooka

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Bucks County, PA
afman916 said:
Thoughts on whether or not the box could be adapted to fit a sub with a mounting depth of 4 5/8”? Looking at a JL TW1.
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The box itself can't exceed 4" or else the deck won't sit flat. But, since the sub faces down into the spare tire, you might be able to make a flange and raise the sub up off the box to make allowance for the speaker depth. Just have to make sure everything exceeding the 4" height fits down into the spare tire opening. I hope that makes sense.
 
A

afman916

Ready to race!
Location
Raleigh, NC
Jozooka said:
The box itself can't exceed 4" or else the deck won't sit flat. But, since the sub faces down into the spare tire, you might be able to make a flange and raise the sub up off the box to make allowance for the speaker depth. Just have to make sure everything exceeding the 4" height fits down into the spare tire opening. I hope that makes sense.
Click to expand...

Great, thanks man. So just to ensure I'm on the right page as I haven't gone and physically measured the trunk yet:

- The box itself can only be 4" tall OD. At 4" tall, the floor sits flush and the box rests atop the spare tire.
- This leaves either 3 1/2" or 3 1/4" of mountable depth for the sub, depending on if going with 3/4" or 1/2" material.
- Any additional mounting depth necessary will have to be found by raising the sub off the box with flanges, causing the sub to protrude into the spare tire void. As long as the outside diameter of the sub is not greater than the inside diameter of the spare tire, this should work fine. However, I'd imagine care must be taken to ensure the sub has enough room to"move" (flex? whatever the audio term would be) and doesn't bump against the trunk floor.


Is that all about right? Looking to draw up some plans for a box build this weekend with my dad. Thanks guys!

*Edit - for reference, this is the sub I'm looking at

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13692189/JL-Audio-12TW1-2.html?tp=111&awkw=130392491785&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=68375339425&awdv=c&awug=9011068&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtOLVBRCZARIsADPLtJ1DMjh2OOzJrNN6OkxY9sNCbF_Es6yrzSDZkDKoPnKNF1sK5Kf5FnsaAikTEALw_wcB

top-mount depth: 4-5/8"
sealed box volume: 0.65 cubic feet
 
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