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Need help deciding COLD AIR INTAKE @@@@

K

kingcezar1992

Passed Driver's Ed
I have a 2013 GTI with DSG on it. I currently have one MOD that being stage one ECU APR.

I have not done anything else, but I am thinking about adding a cold air intake on this. And I was doing some reading but decide between all of them out there and need some help. First of all do you guys recommend getting a cold air intake. And then I saw it comes with two stages, first stage is the first portion and the second portion connects to the back of the engine. I don't plan on going any further with mods just a cold air intake if needed.

So would I need stage one or two? What would be the difference or worth the extra money for me?

Also if I was thinking in not doing this and or doing something else, what would you guys recommend?

Thanks! Please let me know!!!

Also where could I get one cheaper than paying the full price. Thanks!
 
ModdedEuros

ModdedEuros

Go Kart Champion
Difference is reducing the stock piping more which is little more restrictive. You could just go with an intake that replaces it all like Unitronic, CTS, Volant etc.

We offer price match guarantee which means we know we offer competitive pricing and you will not find pricing lower. If you would by chance we will match their price. More info onsite if you want


MK6 GTI intakes are here if you want to browse. Feel free to email us if you have any questions support@moddedeuros.com
http://www.moddedeuros.com/volkswagen/golf-gti/mk6-10-13/intake/cold-air-intakes
 
411big

411big

Ready to race!
The hp gains from an Intake will be minimal, about 5 hp, I feel like the stock filter and box will do your engine best as far as filtration. I wouldn't sacrifice filtration for a few more hp. If I had to recommend a cold air I would go with cts, people have good things to say about it and it's not too expensive.
 
Locke

Locke

Ready to race!
I recently purchased an intake after doing a fair amount of research. My findings/ recommendations:
  • As mentioned, you'll see minimal hp gains (maybe 5-10hp) with a stage 1/ stage 2 ECU tune
  • With this in mind, many people purchase their intake for a combination of minimal hp gains, appearance in your engine bay, and noises
  • I recommend looking at youtube videos for each intake you're considering: checkout the channel "Last Human Garage," its a wealth of information
  • I highly recommend buying used: the prices on new intakes are insane for what you get. There are plenty of intakes sold in the classified section here
  • Open air intake vs "cold air intake": really no difference. Air temp difference is small, the ability to flow air is the reason for hp gains
  • Open air intakes will increase the a harmonic sound (often referred to as a "flute" noise). To remedy this, people either buy a revD diverter valve, GFB DV+ kit, or a DV relocation kit. Research these, as you will need at least one
  • I would say you don't need the stage 2 piping, it again improves air flow a bit, but you can spend your dollars better
  • It is a fun, relatively simple DIY install
 
Last edited:
greasyginzo

greasyginzo

Go Kart Champion
I installed my Neuspeed intake after I was stage 1 and felt a definite improvement top end. It didn't fall on its face as soon or as hard with the stock air box. I chose Neuspeed because MJM sold it for far less than any other intake in the market and Neuspeed products fit like nothing else. MJM was a fuckin bitch I had to make several calls and threaten to cancel my order before I actually recieved it.

After I went stage 2 ecu I bought a used stage 2 APr intake pipe and the only difference is sound. I could hear the turbo whistle on spool up with the stage 2 pipe no performance difference was felt.

The best intake is probably Unitronics and Neuspeed as far as quality and fitment. APR isn't bad but it is expensive if going with both stage 1 and 2 sections.
 
A

APR_MK6

New member
I bought APR Stage 1 + 2. I am absolutely in love with the way my engine bay looks with the carbon fiber. I get compliments all the time. It was fairly easy to install as well. I would say the spent quite a bit of time and effort in the design of this intake. I paid $600 for both through www.ngpracing.com I would also note that if you have CBFA engine code you will also need a small crankcase vent filter. It also sounds amazing you can really here the turbo spool up. Good luck with your sale!:thumbup:
 
lilonespaz

lilonespaz

Drag Race Newbie
Locke said:
I recently purchased an intake after doing a fair amount of research. My findings/ recommendations:
  • As mentioned, you'll see minimal hp gains (maybe 5-10hp) with a stage 1/ stage 2 ECU tune
  • With this in mind, many people purchase their intake for a combination of minimal hp gains, appearance in your engine bay, and noises
  • I recommend looking at youtube videos for each intake you're considering: checkout the channel "Last Human Garage," its a wealth of information
  • I highly recommend buying used: the prices on new intakes are insane for what you get. There are plenty of intakes sold in the classified section here
  • Open air intake vs "cold air intake": really no difference. Air temp difference is small, the ability to flow air is the reason for hp gains
  • Open air intakes will increase the a harmonic sound (often referred to as a "flute" noise). To remedy this, people either buy a revD diverter valve, GFB DV+ kit, or a DV relocation kit. Research these, as you will need at least one
  • I would say you don't need the stage 2 piping, it again improves air flow a bit, but you can spend your dollars better
  • It is a fun, relatively simple DIY install
Click to expand...

I agreed with everything till here. I have a CTS intake and the "flute/whistle" noise is only there if you floor it and its only there from about 5krpm up. You wont here the iconic flute harmonics below that because you're not moving enough air across the piping.

You dont have to buy a new diverter valve because of it. Its there but i barely notice it now.
 
B

blingdub

Go Kart Newbie
given that i do city stop-and-go driving 90% of the time, which types of intakes are best suited for that? i rarely ever go past 4000 rpms...
 
M

mikeyhandz

Ready to race!
i have a forge twin take and absolutely love it, sounds great and also looks great its all up to you though it really won't make too much of a difference
 
Jaber

Jaber

Modero
blingdub said:
given that i do city stop-and-go driving 90% of the time, which types of intakes are best suited for that? i rarely ever go past 4000 rpms...
Click to expand...

Stay stock.

Intakes typically see gains on the higher RPMs, while losing a bit in the low end.

Word of advise, not going over 4k RPMs in these cars, can lead to early carbon buildup. But that's another topic of debate, you can feel free searching the forum, so not to derail this thread.
 
B

blingdub

Go Kart Newbie
Jaber said:
Stay stock.
Click to expand...

i was afraid of that :confused:....

i'm definitely contemplating doing this intake though: http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22621

only $50 and i can get the whooooosh.

Jaber said:
Word of advise, not going over 4k RPMs in these cars, can lead to early carbon buildup.
Click to expand...

thanks for the tip! i only owned my car for 5 months and i already had to deal with carbon problems; had all 4 injectors replaced as a result. now, the rare times i do go on the highway i just stay in 3rd or 4th.
 
K

k.romano

New member
I have an Injen CAI and absolutely love it. easy install and only 200$. the "whoosh" you are looking for is very evident in it as well.
 
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