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The Random / "Stupid" Questions Thread

torga

Autocross Champion
Update: I finally did it. I finally found the right spot to pick under (had to do a lot of this blind, which added to the frustration) and I was able to scoop the rest of this dry-ass rubber out.
Now I'll clean out the grooves and finally start putting my car back together.
 

torga

Autocross Champion
Update #2: The hose clamp between the coolant pipes from the reservoir and the coolant pipe to the pump has proven extremely troublesome. I am not strong enough to hold the hose clamp pliers with one hand while sliding the clamp itself into place with the other. And since I've been trying for half an hour straight, I have zero strength left in my arm; I can't even squeeze the pliers a millimeter anymore.
I don't get it -- the other 4 or 5 hose clamps I've done on this car have been fine, but this one is giving me a world of issues. I'm gonna have to wait until a friend gets off work later so he can come squeeze the pliers with both hands while I get to use both hands to move the clamp into position.
Really aggravating, because after this, all that remains is reinstalling the throttle body and throttle pipe, then 3 electrical connectors and I'm done. That will take no time at all, but here I am stuck because of my weak-ass.
 

brat_burner

Autocross Champion
Needs locking hose clamp pliers... I have two different cheap ones off amazon, and then a matco cable plier

plierset.jpg
 

torga

Autocross Champion
Needs locking hose clamp pliers... I have two different cheap ones off amazon, and then a matco cable plier
That's the shitty part, because I am using a nice set of locking pliers. But even at the final tooth, the clamp is not loose enough to be slid to where it needs to be. I need to squeeze into that extra area after the past tooth. So they're effectively regular pliers with training wheels at this point lol
 

brat_burner

Autocross Champion
That's the shitty part, because I am using a nice set of locking pliers. But even at the final tooth, the clamp is not loose enough to be slid to where it needs to be. I need to squeeze into that extra area after the past tooth. So they're effectively regular pliers with training wheels at this point lol

Screw clamp!!!! hahaha
 

torga

Autocross Champion

torga

Autocross Champion
vice grips? think a zip tie would hold the clamp open?
I finally did it! With some lube and a friend ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
I'm now running the engine up to temp with the heater on. I don't have one of those fancy vacuum fillers.
 

torga

Autocross Champion
While burping the system, the reservoir started to boil over (had the cap off so air could escape). Does that mean the thermostat wasn't opening?
 

torga

Autocross Champion
At that point the cap needs to be back on. If thermostat never opened the engine temp would be super high
Gotcha. I left the cap off because I was waiting for it to start bubbling down as air made its way out, but the reservoir level never went down. Once it got up to temp, it stayed around 200-203F for a while (monitoring through OBDeleven), then it started climbing to 208-212F. That's what I shut off the car.
It was nominal temp for a good 15 min, and the rad fans even came on.
A lot of coolant spilled out of the water pump and it didn't take as much to fill the reservoir, so I expected there to be air trapped somewhere.
 

brat_burner

Autocross Champion
Gotcha. I left the cap off because I was waiting for it to start bubbling down as air made its way out, but the reservoir level never went down. Once it got up to temp, it stayed around 200-203F for a while (monitoring through OBDeleven), then it started climbing to 208-212F. That's what I shut off the car.
It was nominal temp for a good 15 min, and the rad fans even came on.
A lot of coolant spilled out of the water pump and it didn't take as much to fill the reservoir, so I expected there to be air trapped somewhere.

Most cars do well bleeding by themselves. When it gets up to temp you need the cap on so the system is under pressure(raising the boiling point.) You can also pump the hoses by hand to help push some of the air out initially. The ones I've found that really need a vacuum type filler, are low temp cooling circuits for intercoolers/heat exchangers. Typically they are closed and don't really have a "reservoir" from the factory. When air is in there the electric pump won't even run and it can make it impossible to fill. Had to pull the res off a couple times just to pick it up higher than the rest of the system. Some of the aftermarket kits don't even put a bleeder in the heat exchanger/low temp rad. Air in these can rob about 40hp real quick.

Probably fine just check the level after the first couple heat cycles.
 

torga

Autocross Champion
Thanks for the tips! I'll drive it like normal and keep some coolant in the trunk for a few days.
 

1ashchuckton

Autocross Champion
Glad you finally got it. Sounds like a royal pain in the arse for sure. I've found when I get into a situation like that for me it's time to walk away have a cold one & think about why I'm doing the job. Most of the time it will work out, sometimes I have to search for the correct curse word.
 

torga

Autocross Champion
Drove around a bunch today with OBDeleven showing my coolant temp. Cruising around 198-200F, with 205-215F at slower speeds in the city. Sound normal? Only had to top it off once today.

I'm noticing very small puddles on the splash guard, but it may just be all the coolant I spilled working its way down. I'll give that a few days before getting too concerned about it.
 
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