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Top 10 Mk7 Mods

GTI Jake

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
So you fancy yourself the pot or the kettle there, white knight?

moving on.

The best mod is fixing the dope behind the wheel. Driving the car in stock form will teach the driver the nuances and weakness of the chassis. But I think the OP excluded that.

The PP, or all 19+, is fairly well sorted for a stock car. These are not drag racers, the nature of the “hot hatch” is quick and nimble. But even for those that won’t track or even auto-x the car you’d be hard pressed to find a better mod then doing tires first. The stock A/S are mediocre, and with an open mind and some seat time, even the Bridgestones that came on my car can be pushed fairly predictably for short bursts. The limit starts to open as the tire temps climb. Then there’s a Thelma and Louise like transition to WTF just happened?!? Better rubber under the car should be the first mod after seat time. “But it’s a new(ish) car and the tires are good.” Then just drive it and learn the vehicle’s dynamics. One doesn’t need to have pure low-TW summer tires, a good set of UHP A/S will be increase capabilities while allowing the driver’s skill to advance.

The PP is fairly neutral if input is smooth and methodical, but I’ll admit it turns into a plow if you ham-fist things. The VAQ diff does an amazing amount for limiting understeer as you throttle out of corners, but also doesn’t like things when you tip too much loud pedal. Basically, the car will out drive most drivers, if the driver can drive. 🤔

A bigger rear bar will assist in keeping the inside front tire from off weighting if you don’t have the PP, and by a lesser degree if you do. This will allow you to be more sloppy, but that’s what all your seat time will prevent.

Brakes, I haven’t faded my PP’s yet, but 4-pots are on my short list. Pad upgrade to your type of driving and rotors when you wed them, and most canyon carvers will be just fine with more or less stock.

From there, power mods, but only after you learn to, and can, put the power down. I’ve been driving, racing, tuning, fabricating, etc for nearly 30yrs on 4 continents, and I haven’t said “shit this car is pathetically slow” yet... not that an extra 80hp wouldn’t be nice. I’ve never been a proponent of power before turning and stopping. Otherwise you are always trying to chase the brass ring of handling in a car you’ve compensated with too much power, and not enough driver. That said, I’m not a straight line kinda guy, so YMMV.

I’m still learning my car since COVID and having a summer vehicle limits my mileage in the GTI. My mod course is: tires/wheels, RSB, shocks/springs (likely Koni Yellows with minimal drop linear-ish springs), brakes, then likely a mild tune to better use the previous mods.

Someday I’d like to get all the “driver mod” guys together to do some indoor karting and have a few beers.

Level playing field, equal equipment.

First time I went to Victory Lane Karting here in Charlotte I mopped up our group and everyone else there...until a 14 year old girl showed up and literally smoked me haha.

So yes, seat time is priceless (talking to her dad she’s got over 10k miles of track time in a Hellcat), but just like any kind of racing there’s always someone faster!
 

Corprin

Autocross Champion
Location
Magrathea
Car(s)
A car
Someday I’d like to get all the “driver mod” guys together to do some indoor karting and have a few beers.

Level playing field, equal equipment.

First time I went to Victory Lane Karting here in Charlotte I mopped up our group and everyone else there...until a 14 year old girl showed up and literally smoked me haha.

So yes, seat time is priceless (talking to her dad she’s got over 10k miles of track time in a Hellcat), but just like any kind of racing there’s always someone faster!

Absolutely.

This is why I have a boring M-F job... despite a handful of local class wins in auto-x, I was a solid middle-to-back of the pack club racing kinda guy. Never had the money to compete even in SSB for more than a couple events.
 

GTI Jake

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
Absolutely.

This is why I have a boring M-F job... despite a handful of local class wins in auto-x, I was a solid middle-to-back of the pack club racing kinda guy. Never had the money to compete even in SSB for more than a couple events.

It’s a crazy small world, especially here in Charlotte. Scott Speed’s step son came over for a FMIC, DP & MP and he said they go karting there too haha. I guess there’s regularly professional drivers there on Friday/Saturday nights.

Would be a privilege to get lapped by a rally x & former F1 driver
 

JerseyDrew77

Autocross Champion
Location
Virginia & NC
Car(s)
2016 TR GTI S 6MT
So you fancy yourself the pot or the kettle there, white knight?

moving on.

The best mod is fixing the dope behind the wheel. Driving the car in stock form will teach the driver the nuances and weakness of the chassis. But I think the OP excluded that.

The PP, or all 19+, is fairly well sorted for a stock car. These are not drag racers, the nature of the “hot hatch” is quick and nimble. But even for those that won’t track or even auto-x the car you’d be hard pressed to find a better mod then doing tires first. The stock A/S are mediocre, and with an open mind and some seat time, even the Bridgestones that came on my car can be pushed fairly predictably for short bursts. The limit starts to open as the tire temps climb. Then there’s a Thelma and Louise like transition to WTF just happened?!? Better rubber under the car should be the first mod after seat time. “But it’s a new(ish) car and the tires are good.” Then just drive it and learn the vehicle’s dynamics. One doesn’t need to have pure low-TW summer tires, a good set of UHP A/S will be increase capabilities while allowing the driver’s skill to advance.

The PP is fairly neutral if input is smooth and methodical, but I’ll admit it turns into a plow if you ham-fist things. The VAQ diff does an amazing amount for limiting understeer as you throttle out of corners, but also doesn’t like things when you tip too much loud pedal. Basically, the car will out drive most drivers, if the driver can drive. 🤔

A bigger rear bar will assist in keeping the inside front tire from off weighting if you don’t have the PP, and by a lesser degree if you do. This will allow you to be more sloppy, but that’s what all your seat time will prevent.

Brakes, I haven’t faded my PP’s yet, but 4-pots are on my short list. Pad upgrade to your type of driving and rotors when you wed them, and most canyon carvers will be just fine with more or less stock.

From there, power mods, but only after you learn to, and can, put the power down. I’ve been driving, racing, tuning, fabricating, etc for nearly 30yrs on 4 continents, and I haven’t said “shit this car is pathetically slow” yet... not that an extra 80hp wouldn’t be nice. I’ve never been a proponent of power before turning and stopping. Otherwise you are always trying to chase the brass ring of handling in a car you’ve compensated with too much power, and not enough driver. That said, I’m not a straight line kinda guy, so YMMV.

I’m still learning my car since COVID and having a summer vehicle limits my mileage in the GTI. My mod course is: tires/wheels, RSB, shocks/springs (likely Koni Yellows with minimal drop linear-ish springs), brakes, then likely a mild tune to better use the previous mods.

Wow Corprin, I'm impressed. You actually posted something beneficial and useful to the forum. Give yourself a gold star.
 

PowerDemon

Autocross Champion
Location
Richmond, VA
Car(s)
Golf GTI, Camaro ZL1
Dude, what are you waiting for with the suspension mods? Since your suspension is stock, you'll definitely feel a difference when you upgrade to a bigger RSB.

Yeah.... I wanted to lower but sometimes I drive it in snow, on gravel roads, and sometimes off-road so stock height is nice for that. I do need a RSB though. I think Powerflex bushings all the way around might be the move too.
 
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