What did you do to your MK6 today?

[supreme_gti]

I put in a dogbone mount insert last night, what a difference! Instantly smoother shifting and driving, and super minimal NVH. I went for the CTS Turbo insert, which is still pretty soft. I wish I had done it years ago.

this one?
https://www.ctsturbo.com/product/cts-turbo-mk6-billet-torque-arm-insert/

what about the torque arm?

It's better to upgrade both the insert and the torque arm

I'm still running stock (both insert and arm), ko4, no issues but everyone says it's worth the upgrade for smooth shifts.

 

[king1138]

Nope, this one

 

[king1138]

I'll get to the torque arm eventually, but I'm still on K03 and only stage 1. I strongly recommend the insert at least, my shifts are so much smoother now...

 

[jedred1]

I replaced my spark plugs @ 30 Nm. 0.028" gap. Using NGK PFR7S8EG Double Platinum Spark Plug - 1675. Starts faster

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[jedred1]

Today I replaced my fuel filter. Those clips are a pain in the ass so this time I pre treated them with silicone spray and they came right off.

 

[aspro_gti]

Today I replaced my fuel filter. Those clips are a pain in the ass so this time I pre treated them with silicone spray and they came right off.

Where is the fuel filter? In the pump?

 

[Blaznjoe]

Where is the fuel filter? In the pump?

Tucked underneath the car, passenger side, near the rear suspension swing arm mount. Easy to access but those clips can be a pain in ass to undo.

 

[king1138]

Not today, but yesterday had to put in new spark plugs after about 6k miles. Cylinder three must have had a hairline crack in the porcelain and it separated and blocked the electrode. The plus side is I got my 15 year old daughter to help, so now she knows how to work on her own car!

 

[aspro_gti]

Got driver's Recaro seat bolted in (no lights on dash btw... wiring works well)
The seat height is a bit higher than the original plaid one... so I'm still getting used to the driving position.
The shoulder bolsters were made for a skinnier person... I've got wide shoulders (from doing muscle ups... had to flex) and so the fit is not ideal.
I'm 6'0 and my proportions are that of a longer torso and shorter legs, which means that my head is high up on the seat (again designed for someone probably shorter)... meaning that the base of my skull is on the edge of the seat when I sit nice and tall (good posture)... definitely not ideal.
I'm considering making a pillow to slouch my back so that I'm not so tall in the seat.
Passenger's seat being bolted in soon.

 

[This is Ryans face]

Replaced both front swaybar endlinks. Steering was sloppish at highway speeds and I've been systematically replacing every suspension component piece by piece over the last year or two when I find the time.

Bit premature to be sure but steering feels way better and way more planted and with less slop over bumps now. Trying to get them off wasn't too big of a problem but the driver's side didn't require the control arm to be under load to remove it from the swaybar and strut tower. It just popped right out. The passenger side seemed almost locked into place at the strut and clunky at the sway and required the control arm to be loaded with a jack. The genius designer at racingline who constructed my struts decided that the endlink bolt needed to be surrounded by metal slots... no idea what purpose they serve. Had to use an 18mm long head and hope that the bolt didn't just infinitely turn on itself. Good products, but stupid ass design there. I feel bad for putting my racing kit installer through that bullshit.

it's literally impossible to fit anything between those two slots that isn't a torque wrench head. Could've been miserable if it didn't turn properly.

 

[blingdub]

i finally built up the courage to DIY and take the intake manifold off. i was plagued with a P2015 fault and i didn't want to pay another $1k+ to get the damn thing replaced. the last manifold lasted just over 13 months before failing. i had a shop do the work and did carbon cleaning at the same time.

speaking of which....i thought the shop was reputable, as they also work on very expensive Audis/Porsches, but it appears i got screwed... not only did they fail to inform me that the newest revision was incompatible with my car because my fuel rail is too old, they actually put in an aftermarket brand instead of OEM (they still charged OEM price!!). i can't find any VW markings on it, and the runner sensor on the side just has "made in china" on it -- it's not even branded!! figures why it failed so quickly.

anywho, a new fuel rail is not cheap. it's almost $500. sooo, i took a chance and bought a used one off ebay. similarly...i'm taking a chance with a new Febi intake manifold instead of OEM.

project needs to take a pause because i don't have a 24mm socket to turn the engine....so once that arrives i'll do some DIY carbon cleaning. one of the nipples are broken off one of those intake divider things, so i got one as well (why are these things so expensive?? it's $30 each).

all in all, if you were hesitant to attempt this job, don't be. if you can put on an air intake, you can do this job. i was heavily encouraged when i found a video of someone taking the manifold off in 10 minutes, unedited.