which handles better?? GTI STOCK 17's or 18's

:laughabove: +1...that's funny and true.

tydale3 said:

The reason the car is higher in the usa is not because of bumper height restrictions....

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There are mentions in several auto-journals that VW raised the height to better meet US crash testing scores. (Because so many US consumers are obsessed with these.)

I would say that the roads in Europe vary much more widely than in the US. I doubt they would tune the height of the suspension just to be driven in Europe's superior freeways.

tydale3 said:

bigger is for looks only. 17s are lighter and give you a slight lower final gear ratio. the car is faster with 17s higher top end with 18s.

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Where do you get your info dude? The tires are virtually the same height, and have no difference in gearing. There is no noticable difference in the numbers below:

225/45/17
Diameter: 25.0 in
Circumference: 78.5 in
Revs per mile: 808

225/40/18
Diameter: 25.1
Circumference: 78.8 in
Revs per mile: 804

When you go to 18" tires, your speedo is .5% slow. Less than 1%. When you go 18" tires, if your speed reads 60mph, you are going 60.3mph.

Several things to keep in mind.

Bigger = better looks is most people's opinion, heavier, less side wall, harsher ride, quicker reponse.

Smaller = less unsprung weight, smoother ride.

From a autocrosser/road racer/drag racer stand point... I'd go with bigger (18").
Once you start throwing more Horse Power into these cars they will have a hard time hooking up off the line and in the corners too.
Plus, you can NOT find an aftermarket wheel as nice as some of the stock 18" wheels for the price!

Go big or stay home!

And don't forget too... VW recommends re-aligning the car when you step up in tire/wheel sizes.

I'm pulling the trigger next month and still can't decide between the 17s and 18s. Mainly because I don't like the look of the US spec 17s--and don't like the 18"s either (looks too pimped-up). I really wish we had the Monza 17s here... I'd hate to spend another $1000 just to get some aftermarket knock-offs.

Some excerpts from VW Golf+ magazine (UK)---regarding the 18s.

"Okay, our car's fitted with VW's optional Monza II alloys, which bring a little Lambo-style flair to the profile, yet though the big 18s undoubtedly enhance grip they also take some of the subtlety out of the GTI's ride. It's never nervous or fidgety, but you feel every road imperfection and the Conti' Sport Contacts aren't the quietest when it comes to road noise. Still, it all adds to the GTI's 'connected' feel and endows the car with a real take me by the scruff of the neck attitude."

"But then so does the GTI albeit slightly more abrasive and peppy in its execution. The sensible side of you would opt for the factory 17s then languish in its supreme conrnering abilities without compromising the ride slightly, but if that's what you crave you'd probably buy an R32 in the first place..."

Then get the 17's and save the money for your aftermarket rims you want. There's no sense in paying for an 18 you don't want. Save the 17's for winter tires. Besides that, I think they look nicer.

Sorry. Let me clarify.

I prefer the look of the 18s over the US spec 17s. Mainly because they look very consistent with the overall appearance of the GTI. However, I'm not 100% sold on the the 18s because they appear a little to extreme for my personal tastes.

The dilema then is: should I spend the extra $750 for 80% satisfaction? Or keep the $750 for 40% satisfaction (as far as the aesthetic apperance of the wheels are concerned). Will I be regretting this decision in a year's time?

Ideally, I want the Euro spec 17s. But I'd hate to pay more than $750 for those.

herrstreet said:

From what I understand, you can't mix 17's and 18's because the alignment has to be redone and there are bump stops that the suspension needs with the 18's that are factory installed. Is there an easy way around this that I don't know???

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So this is the offical stand point, going from 17" to 18" wheels you have to get an alignment? is this a just for the back or all 4?

dopalacz said:

IF YOU'RE NOT GOING TO TAKE YOUR RIDE TO PROFESSIONALL TRACK AND AS FAR AS YOU'RE GOOD DRIVER U WON'T FEEL THE DIFFERENCE !!
18 LOOKS WAY BETTER

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I'm assuming you put!! instead???? I'm coming to this forums to learn from others because I see more of you are talking from your experiences, but some here are doing arguments in order to learn it's common in forums lol. Ok I had been driving with lights wheels and there are differences in daily driving. The main difference it's in unsprung when u go over potholes the wheel bouncing it's better. when switching from light to heavy a lot off U had noticed wasting more gas. An example of difference size are the ballet dancers when the are spinning they bring they arms close to they body and when they want to reduce they gradually extend they arms. So adding inches to your wheels will add more mass rotation since the wheel I'll be heaviest part and you are adding 1 or 2 inch to each side of the internal circumference. Other than unsprung the rest it's hard to notice since our gti have too much torque. Same thing with the high performances cars they have to much torque so extra 10 pounds would not hurt them "in daily driving". Also most of the 15,16,17" are very close to tire weight but when u go to 18" 19" they average weight increments are considerable. Another example some in here are willing to waste $400 or more installing "light pulleys" to gain only1 or 2 hp, and in my opinion our engine are very well balanced internally for experienced engineers. Sorry for my bad English.

RallyVWDan said:

Depends on what you want to do.

If you want the ricer look and don't care how it drives go with some 20"s yo.

If you want to dive it like you stole it go as small and light as you can and still clear the binders.

If you want to take a happy medium and are smart, you'll get the get the stock rims to keep for winter wheels and then add some light forged 17"s with the best rubber you can afford for summer wheels.

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Good coment! make sence to me:thumbsup:

budgy said:

The smaller the diameter and the lighter the better from a performance aspect. If i was buying a set of rims for the track id get 16's with some damn sticky tires.

But I dont track my car, I just like too drive fast once in a while and have a good understanding of how extra unsprung weight can ruin a cars handling/braking performance. But at the same time its hard too ignore how good 18's look on the GTI. I will probably get some 18" OZ Ultraleggera's with Kumho MX tires, and end up around 40.5 pounds a corner thats 8.5 less a corner than the stock 17's and 14.5 less than the stock 18's id say thats a good compromise on speed/looks/price.

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According to tirerack the conti are 22lbs and our wheels are 24lbs so 46-40.5=5.5lbs U will saving 5.5 lbs no 8.5. what about if I go for the rotas 16lbs? They will making soon in our bolt pattern and there is a conti that weight only 20lbs. I'll be ending 4 lbs lighter than you only 36lbs for only $600 half of the price u will paying for those ultraleggra's... lol. jajajaja :iono:

ALL other factors being equal, the best size depends on the road surface.

An 18 can be a better turning traction/response size on a smooth track than a 17, but if the construction and compounds of the tire/wheels are identical then a 17 can have better straight line performance due lighter weight and a tighter axial weight distribution.

If you really want to argue the differences look at it this way. You trade .5" of rubber for metal across a span(radius) of 13.5"(axle to contact patch). Thats a difference of less than 4%.

Personally, I went with 17's for costs/weight performance/value, but I agree that 18's look better.

Now argueing 16's vs 19's is a different story.

atomoverride said:

So this is the offical stand point, going from 17" to 18" wheels you have to get an alignment? is this a just for the back or all 4?

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No, wheel size has nothing to do with alignment. Camber, caster, and toe values all remain the same, regardless of tire or wheel size. As long as your tire pressures, and alignment is correct in the first place. Changing offsets can affect scrub radius and suspension leverages, but the base alignments remain the same.

Suspension mods DO require and alignment, front and rear, however.

feuerdog said:

No, wheel size has nothing to do with alignment. Camber, caster, and toe values all remain the same, regardless of tire or wheel size. As long as your tire pressures, and alignment is correct in the first place. Changing offsets can affect scrub radius and suspension leverages, but the base alignments remain the same.

Suspension mods DO require and alignment, front and rear, however.

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Well I went to 18"s and the back end was off a little so I took it in for an alignment. VW Rape charge of 160$. ouch. and it was wobbling a little when I was going 80+ so I guess its good I took it in.

Tydale3 keeps owning himself