Autotech HPFP DIY/Tips

[demi9od]

When i cracked the first bolt loose, a JET of fuel shot out of the low pressure inlet. Luckily it hit me in the shoulder and not the face, because i was not wearing glasses at that point.

Money shot

 

[Hoon]

Did you guys need significant tune changes??

Did the first WOT pull last night (was raining all day). Car took off like an animal, pulled harder than it's ever pulled, had 5 degrees of knock on all cylinders, and smelled like it was on fire.

Fuel pressure was around 3500psi. Going to have to address the tune ASAP.

 

[Diggs24]

Don't recall any burning. Changes were made to file but I don't know what was needed.

 

[2slowvw]

Did you guys need significant tune changes??

Did the first WOT pull last night (was raining all day). Car took off like an animal, pulled harder than it's ever pulled, had 5 degrees of knock on all cylinders, and smelled like it was on fire.

Fuel pressure was around 3500psi. Going to have to address the tune ASAP.

For HPFP no changes were needed. For lpfp to run the 450, definitely.

 

[Hoon]

Not sure why mine was so out of whack on E30 then.

Im just throwing more corn at it and all is well, Statified has my datalogs so he'll get it dialed in again soon.

 

[Ramon64124]

Probably because each tuner tunes differently. Remember Diggs is on Maestro. I'm know Jon said he needs to adjust stuff after installing.

 

[Hoon]

Two updates.

My tune issue was due to a bad batch of E85 and had nothing to do with the pump.

Also, APR just replied to my email asking about the turnaround time on their pump...34 days after I emailed them. Lol.

 

[Diggs24]

Two updates.

My tune issue was due to a bad batch of E85 and had nothing to do with the pump.

Also, APR just replied to my email asking about the turnaround time on their pump...34 days after I emailed them. Lol.

lolololol I too emailed about turnaround and that's how long it took them to respond too. I already had it installed by then. I never even opened the email to see what the turnaround time was.

 

[railroader]

Mine comes in Monday

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[railroader]

One step closer

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[railroader]

All in and all done, very simple job, took about an hour to an hour and a half thanks to Diggs for the DIY and the autotech instructions are very straight forward, I did manage to get the bearing splitter in between the spring and the retainer, on one side the spring does not meet the retainer so i lined up the splitter to that spot and tried to get the other end right in between, as you tighten it up a bit it will create a little seperation between the spring and the retainer then i got a small flat head and walked the spring down below the other end of the splitter and proceeded to get it free. Had one little leak below at the bottom hard line (think its fixed) then went for a drive and had a major leak where the quick connect line for the fuel it popped off. Its broke so i put the oem line back in and removed the fuel it till I buy GOOD new quick connects for it.

 

[pieguy]

All in and all done, very simple job, took about an hour to an hour and a half thanks to Diggs for the DIY and the autotech instructions are very straight forward, I did manage to get the bearing splitter in between the spring and the retainer, on one side the spring does not meet the retainer so i lined up the splitter to that spot and tried to get the other end right in between, as you tighten it up a bit it will create a little seperation between the spring and the retainer then i got a small flat head and walked the spring down below the other end of the splitter and proceeded to get it free. Had one little leak below at the bottom hard line (think its fixed) then went for a drive and had a major leak where the quick connect line for the fuel it popped off. Its broke so i put the oem line back in and removed the fuel it till I buy GOOD new quick connects for it.

Precision Raceworks sells a very good connector to the continental fuel sensor that comes in a pack of two for $30.

They are proprietary connectors designed to use with the push lock hose we use. They require no hose clamps, and flow more than other connectors on the market. Also unlike generic connectors you will not have a threaded connector that a 3/8 quick connect connector screws to which removes 2 potential leak paths in your situation. We have done 700+ whp through E-sensors so I wouldn’t be to concerned with it as a restriction. We have straight fittings in stock designed for our fuel hose and the Continental ethanol sensors if you wanted to have aluminum connectors that match the others in the fuel line. To install you simply cut where you want to mount the sensor and push the fittings in. They are a bit hard to push in when in the car but are very do-able.

 

[Hoon]

All in and all done, very simple job, took about an hour to an hour and a half thanks to Diggs for the DIY and the autotech instructions are very straight forward, I did manage to get the bearing splitter in between the spring and the retainer, on one side the spring does not meet the retainer so i lined up the splitter to that spot and tried to get the other end right in between, as you tighten it up a bit it will create a little seperation between the spring and the retainer then i got a small flat head and walked the spring down below the other end of the splitter and proceeded to get it free. Had one little leak below at the bottom hard line (think its fixed) then went for a drive and had a major leak where the quick connect line for the fuel it popped off. Its broke so i put the oem line back in and removed the fuel it till I buy GOOD new quick connects for it.

Good deal.

The one thing that concerns me with the fuel it kit is that hose doesn't have an enlerged relief for the drain back valve...makes me question how much fuel can go through the fuel it kit without removing the valve.

 

[railroader]

All in and all done, very simple job, took about an hour to an hour and a half thanks to Diggs for the DIY and the autotech instructions are very straight forward, I did manage to get the bearing splitter in between the spring and the retainer, on one side the spring does not meet the retainer so i lined up the splitter to that spot and tried to get the other end right in between, as you tighten it up a bit it will create a little seperation between the spring and the retainer then i got a small flat head and walked the spring down below the other end of the splitter and proceeded to get it free. Had one little leak below at the bottom hard line (think its fixed) then went for a drive and had a major leak where the quick connect line for the fuel it popped off. Its broke so i put the oem line back in and removed the fuel it till I buy GOOD new quick connects for it.

Thanks for this I'm gonna check it out tonight and order something up

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[vw671]

Serious question, can someone explain the theory on how adding just a HPFP with no map changes increases power? I've seen a number of people mention this and Autotech also states it on their webpage.

"Upon installing the pump, notable differences include 5% Horsepower & Torque increase on stock mapping."

If AFR is good with your current tuning how is adding a HPFP going to increase power?