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Cuzoe's 2015 Golf TDI S Journal

Cuzoe

Autocross Champion
Location
Los Angeles
@gixxerfool Haha, yes it is. I have an even more random thread over on TDiClub that started with an intention to retrofit the Dynamic Steering rack from the Golf R, haha. That may still happen one day now that I have a Golf R steering rack in-hand 😬.

I should have referenced my previous post fixed... but I am in the process of retrofitting Electronic Parking Brake. Since I have other unfinished retrofit threads going (and I don't want to start anymore that I may never finish) I figure my journal is the better place to document process/track my research.

I generally keep all this crap in my head. I can work from my head on the car but once I get the car work done I have very low motivation to come back and document what I've done. I'm always willing to answer questions and help folks, but that might be easier if I just documented things while their fresh on my mind :ROFLMAO:.

As an example, I've got nearly all the pre-facelift BCM adaptations matched to their corresponding channels on my facelift BCM. But once I got in a good rhythm of finding/matching things I stopped updating the tracking spreadsheet for my DIY thread, which makes the DIY not that useful. Hopefully I find the motivation (and time, new kiddo) to finish the spreadsheet.
 

gixxerfool

Autocross Champion
Location
New Jersey
Car(s)
2016 Golf R
@gixxerfool Haha, yes it is. I have an even more random thread over on TDiClub that started with an intention to retrofit the Dynamic Steering rack from the Golf R, haha. That may still happen one day now that I have a Golf R steering rack in-hand 😬.

I should have referenced my previous post fixed... but I am in the process of retrofitting Electronic Parking Brake. Since I have other unfinished retrofit threads going (and I don't want to start anymore that I may never finish) I figure my journal is the better place to document process/track my research.

I generally keep all this crap in my head. I can work from my head on the car but once I get the car work done I have very low motivation to come back and document what I've done. I'm always willing to answer questions and help folks, but that might be easier if I just documented things while their fresh on my mind :ROFLMAO:.

As an example, I've got nearly all the pre-facelift BCM adaptations matched to their corresponding channels on my facelift BCM. But once I got in a good rhythm of finding/matching things I stopped updating the tracking spreadsheet for my DIY thread, which makes the DIY not that useful. Hopefully I find the motivation (and time, new kiddo) to finish the spreadsheet.
Ah. Very ambitious. That reminds me I need to buy a new parking brake switch. The chrome peeled on mine.

you and I are very much alike. I’m terrible at documenting my progress. Once you find a groove I forget to document anything. And then I’m like, “Crap. Next time.”

You are cruising right along.
 

Cuzoe

Autocross Champion
Location
Los Angeles
*** This post is still in work, but will be complete in the next few days ***

Electronic Parking Brake Retrofit is done!
(physically anyway, need to code everything, I consider that minor)
Edit: Coding is now done as well, everything works, including Autohold... with green (P) indication if you have a ROW cluster... shout out to @Kushdaiin

So I guess I'll try to make this into a semi-informative post now that I've done it...

The prices are MSRP from VW unless otherwise stated but generally found at some sort of discount, and sourced from various vendors
- I often order from VenturaVW here "in" LA because they offer the most discount, they will then source the parts from the dealer that's actually closest to me that seems to have a large warehouse but offers very little discount 🤷‍♂️.


Rear EPB Calipers/Carriers
Left Caliper: 5Q0 615 405 CT (this is a part number for caliper and EPB motor, VW doesn't sell it but eBay does)
- You could buy left caliper 8V0 615 423 E $410 and left EPB motor 3Q0 998 281 $683
Right Caliper: 5Q0 615 406 CT (this is a part number for caliper and EPB motor, VW doesn't sell it but eBay does)
- You could buy right caliper 8V0 615 424 E $390 and right EPB motor 3Q0 998 281 A $521
Left and Right Carriers: 8V0 615 425 B $205/each

Sourcing these was kind of a pain, but I ended up buying a full set of Golf R brakes on eBay, then selling the fronts in the classifieds. People don't do much more than replace pads/rotors for the rear. I couldn't get any of the eBay folks to sell me just the rears. If you're willing to wait then getting these on eBay international is probably the way to go. Only the Golf R (and I suppose S3) got the EPB brake here in the states but ROW the GTI got EPB also (along with the Audis). The used part market across the way is better in general.

Assuming you source the above parts used...
- I opened up the EPB motors to clean/inspect/grease... EPB motor seal kit - 5Q0 698 365 or 8V0 611 243 $6/each
- Also popped the pistons out just to make sure all looked okay... piston seal kit - 8V0 698 671 A $24/each... or Centric PN 143.34021 $7/each
- Caliper Pin Kit, might as well right - 8V0 698 647 $34


EPB Motor Connectors/Plugs
EPB motor plug (2x) - 6X0 973 722 G $35/each
- On the Golf R this is an integrated harness with abs sensors, which your car will already have
EPB motor plug boot/dust seal (2x) - 1J0 906 102 $6/each
EPB motor plug repair wire (2x, so 4 pins) - 000 979 133 E $15/each
- Back of the connector where the wires enter should be sealed. I used a bit of RTV.
- If you're patient and/or smart you may be able to save some money by getting pre-built sealed pigtails from here. I have not ordered from them (yet) but they have pretty much every wire/connector/pin I've ever mentioned and for good prices. They are in the UK so shipping will make ordering from there not worth it unless you're buying lots of stuff.

ABS Module
If your car came with 38 pin ABS (probably a 5Q0 part number) you will need to replace with a 46 pin ABS (3Q0 part)
- Part called out for the Mk7 Golf R by VW is 3Q0 614 517 AF (previously 3Q0 614 517 AA) $1655
- I went with a used Golf R module, part number 3Q0 907 379 AA for under $100
The ABS "unit" is 2 parts... the 3Q0 614 517 xx part is the hydraulic pump, the 3Q0 907 379 xx part is the electronic module
- A 3Q0 614 517 AA (or AF) pump should be mated to module 3Q0 907 379 AA (or AF)... sellers typically list the module part number, just verify both in the pictures



46 Pin ABS Connector
4M0 998 046 $50, or 8V0 998 623 $11 (I have no idea why the Audi PN is so much cheaper 🤷‍♂️)
46 Pin ABS has an extra ground, you need to splice to one of the 38 pin large grounds, repair wire 000 979 308 E $34
EPB motor pins, medium size, need 2 for each motor, repair wire 000 979 242 (4 pins, so 2 wires) $41/each
You'll need some miscellaneous pins as well, small 000 979 046 E $9
- I recommend @Nuje's guide for replacing the ABS pump, it mentions the fun you'll have due to the DPF, but ignore that on a gasser
- I also recommend @golfdave's addition of ESC Control and TPMS Set buttons (if you don't have them), a classic "while you're in there" job

- AliExpress sells an ABS pigtail fully loaded with wires, as PN 5Q0 973 046 for about $25
- Cheaper than repair wires, replace the wires in the pigtail with your existing ones as needed, use the new pigtail wires as needed
- In retrospect I would go this route for the connector/repair wires, save time (not really, Ali shipping is slow) and money



Electronic Parking Brake Switch/Button
EPB switch/button - 5G0 927 225 D $91
EPB switch/button plug - 8E0 972 112 $16
- I bought 2 pigtails on eBay, but I think the repair wire is 000 979 009 E (11 pins, so 6 wires) $20/each
- Note: I bought two pigtails and scavenged a few pins... cars that have an EPB module use the same switch/plug but have fewer wires. On our car the EPB "module" is integrated into the ABS Module. I suspect a few wires that used to go from EPB Module to ABS Module are now going straight from EPB switch to ABS Module.
- You need 11 pins wires so if you get a pigtail with 11 you're good... the pigtails I found in eBay had fewer, so I stole some from one to make a complete one. Still cheaper than buying the connector and repair wires.



Center console is getting it's own post, next...
 
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19birel

Autocross Champion
Location
Pittsburgh
Car(s)
MK7.5 - MK4 - B8.5
Wow, what an awesome thread man! Love the level of detail you've gone to with these OEM retrofits. The interior work especially, those GTD seats, digital dash and MK8 wheel make it look so fresh!
 

Cuzoe

Autocross Champion
Location
Los Angeles
Wow, what an awesome thread man! Love the level of detail you've gone to with these OEM retrofits. The interior work especially, those GTD seats, digital dash and MK8 wheel make it look so fresh!
Thanks, as bad as I am with pictures and updates I'm still surprised at what made into this thread :LOL:.
 

Cuzoe

Autocross Champion
Location
Los Angeles
What do you think of the coolerworx shifter? Easy to live with daily?
Thought I responded to this 🤦🏿‍♂️.

Very easy, self centering and it's fun to use. I've also got the DG Sigma 6 so everything is short and crisp. I don't like the shift knob, just haven't found a replacement I want yet.
 

Cuzoe

Autocross Champion
Location
Los Angeles
Finally started the install of the Ambient+ overhead lighting, as seen on Passat B8 and Arteon's with the Ambient+ package.

Quick rundown of part numbers for a car with black interior, color code (82V)
Same part number but codes (3HS) and (NX1) seem be gray, but I can not confirm that.
I list them with MSRP (for black) though I haven't paid MSRP for any of them, either through discounts or via eBay.
  • Front Dome/Reading Light Assy without sunroof - 3G0 947 105C 82V 158€ (from e-acca)
    • This part number I was able to dig up. My local dealer does not show it valid. I suspect the Ambient+ package only comes with higher trim levels in the states which would have a sunroof.
  • Front Dome/Reading Light Assy with sunroof - 3G0 947 105D 82V $219
  • Rear Dome/Reading Light Assy - 3G0 947 29A 82V $85
  • Front Dome/Reading Light Frame - 3G0 867 489 ? 82V $60-ish
    • I don't know the letter of my frame, I googled the raw part number and bought the frame on eBay, from the UK for $75 shipped
  • Connector for front light assembly - 1K0 972 928 $8
  • Connector for rear light assembly - 4B0 971 978B $7
  • Contact for front and rear light connector - N90764701 $1.50 (you will need 12 of these)
    • You can also order fully loaded pigtails from Ali, or partially filled used pigtails on eBay
    • Some of the pins will be moved over from the existing dome connectors (front only, rear is all new pins), other wires will be new
This is what the light looks like (on the left), beside the removed light. Note that my removed light is the LED type from the Golf R (and I assume higher trim GTI's) but that doesn't matter really, you're going to remove the light and frame. The frame I bought from the UK came with the aft facing grill trim piece, the Carnet button panel, and the interior monitoring system sensor. You can transfer your grill and carnet buttons if you buy a new frame (or one that doesn't come with them). Interior monitoring system won't be in your car unless you have retrofit it (I have).
PXL_20230203_060216103.jpg


You will need to transfer your existing microphone from old light assembly to the new. It clips in/out and has a guide to hold the wiring, just like the old one.
New light 1.JPG
New light 2.JPG


This install is based on the work here...
https://vwcoding.ru/MQB/esteticLightsCodingRGB/
https://www.drive2.ru/l/590922080061533902/
 
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Cuzoe

Autocross Champion
Location
Los Angeles
So now you've decided you want to do this... gotta do the wiring. Note that the two links above have a wiring chart that I followed It was generated in excel/numbers or something I suspect but the only thing I can find are images of the document. It's clear enough to read, but not ideal as the resolution of the screen grab isn't super high. Also, the descriptions are in Russian (I think 😁).

** I am reproducing that chart here... but I take absolutely no credit for the research that went into it. Credit to these links and whoever is credited there. **
https://vwcoding.ru/MQB/esteticLightsCodingRGB/
https://www.drive2.ru/l/590922080061533902/


Front Dome Light Assembly Re-pinning Scheme
Where both first and second column have a number the pin is moved from old (Blue, 6 pin) connector to new (Black, 16 pin) connector.​
Note that both connectors use the same pin, but you will need 6 additional pins (PN N90764701) for the added wiring.​
Where only the first column has a number that pin is no longer used. Do what you want, leave it there, bag and stow the connector, remove pins and heat shrink, etc.​
Where only second column has a number a description of where that wire goes/comes from is provided.​

Existing Connector (Blue, 6 pin)​
New Connector (Black, 16 pin), PN 1K0972928​
1​
Red/Blue Wire, not used in new connectorWas connected to Interior Lamp Harness
2​
15​
Brown/Red Wire, goes to rear view mirror** Not present if you have plane (Golf S) mirror **
3​
Gray Wire, not used in new connectorWas connected to 58d Inst Pnl Wiring (button lighting)
4​
16​
Brown WireGround
5​
9​
Brown/Violet WireGoes to rear dome light assembly.
6​
Brown Wire, not used in new connectorWas connected to Door Contact Switch
1​
New Wire, Power, Terminal 30, Cabin Fuse Box SC8Tie into RLHS if you have one (3 pin, pin 1)
Alternately, Sunroof Control Module (10 pin, pin 10)
Otherwise new wire down to Fuse Box, SC8
** or Rotary Light Switch (10 pin, pin 8)
8​
New Wire, LIN Connection (BCM Plug A pin 15)Tie into Sunroof Control Module (10 pin, pin 1)
Otherwise, new wire down to BCM Plug A pin 15
3​
New WireGoes to Rear Dome Light Pin 5
4​
New WireGoes to Rear Dome Light Pin 6
7​
New WireGoes to Rear Dome Light Pin 4
10​
New WireGoes to Rear Dome Light Pin 3

I should note, if you find you need to run the Power and LIN bus wires, you may as well retrofit the interior motion alarm sensor... we can talk about that later.

Rear Dome Light Assembly Re-Pinning Scheme
Where both first and second column have a number the pin is moved from the old (black, 4 pin) connector to new (black, 6 pin) connector​
Note that both connectors use the same pin, you will need 6 additional pins (PN N90764701) for the added wiring.​
Where only the first column has a number that pin is no longer used. Do what you want, leave it there, bag and stow the connector, remove pins and heat shrink, etc.​
Where only second column has a number a description of where that wire goes/comes from is provided.​
Existing Connector (black, 4 pin)New Connector (black, 6 pin), PN 4B0971978B
2​
1​
Brown Wire​
Ground
3​
2​
Brown/Violet WireGoes to front dome light assembly.
4​
Red/Blue Wire, not used in new connectorWas connected to Interior Lamp Harness
3​
New WireGoes to Front Dome Light Pin 10
4​
New WireGoes to Front Dome Light Pin 7
5​
New WireGoes to Front Dome Light Pin 3
6​
New WireGoes to Front Dome Light Pin 4



You need to run 4 new wires from the front assembly to the rear assembly.

OEM routing is towards the left of the car, then back, then towards the center where the rear light is located. This will be the route you need to take if you have a sunroof. I don't have a sunroof but you should be able to pull down the headliner along the edges to follow this path. Just be careful not to crease the thing. And if you do crease it a little steam will get it 99% of the way out (ask me how I know, haha). On a black headliner you'll never notice, not sure on gray. Also note the existing wiring is taped to the headliner, so you can't just pull along that path.​

If you do not have a sunroof you can use a long wire (or whatever) and fish it from the front assembly to the back. I used a few 18" zip ties taped together, couldn't find my fish tape. I wrapped my four new wires in Tesa tape, pulled them from front to back and pinned into the new connector. There's no place for the wiring to go/move up there or "rattle" against but the Tesa tape wrap will prevent any noise from above (however silly small the chance of there being some).​
 
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Cuzoe

Autocross Champion
Location
Los Angeles
There isn't much to write about the physical installation. Lego VW products means the new frame screws directly in place of the old.
  • The new light assembly snaps/screws into the new frame; self explanatory when you have them in hand.
The only thing to note is that the ground stud attached to the roof (forward, and to the right) will interfere with the new light assembly.
  • Protect the inside of your car with something as needed.
    • A couple $10 harbor freight moving blanket over the dash, steering wheel, middle console and seats work great.
  • You will have to remove the factory dome nut installed there (10mm). Then cut the stud down.
    • I used a Dremel and cut-off wheel.
  • Replace that dome nut with a regular (metric, I'll get the size) nut to secure those grounds.
I'll add my own pictures to this post later, but you can see exactly what I'm talking about at this link, previously credited...
https://www.drive2.ru/l/590922080061533902/
 
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Cuzoe

Autocross Champion
Location
Los Angeles
In retrospect, this might be the first step for this retrofit, before buying parts and all that. If you cannot make the needed changes to adjust the light (for whatever reason... older MIB software, old/incompatible BCM, etc.) then no need to go down this path. If you can make the changes and get the controls to show up you can always revert them until you actually do the install.

So now you've gotta do some coding (really, adaptations in the BCM) in order to make this thing work, and be adjustable. This will be a "living" post because the adaptations will differ for cars with later MIB software.

In my car, which has late MIB software, I have setup the Vehicle > Ambient Lighting page to show my interior, along with the various lighting and "suns" which are used to adjust brightness. You'll note in this picture there is no adjustment "sun" for the overhead light (by the mirror). Ignore the red arrow, that's another issue I'm working but this is the only picture I have handy.
Sun Adjust.PNG


So you need to make the following changes in 09 - BCM adaptations to get that adjustment sun.
It is also my understanding that some Golfs will not be able to show the adjustment sun for the roof. My car (with MIB 2.5) does not have this problem but the solution is described here... https://www.drive2.ru/l/590922080061533902/. It gets into the weeds, and has other requirements that I won't describe in this post but I am happy to answer questions (ideally posted in this thread for the community and not in PM's).
Translations (Google provided) are in blue under each adaptations channel.

Int. light: 2nd generation-LIN-Dachkonsole mit Flaechenlicht - not active > active
Roof console with area light
Interior light: light configuration-Dachbeleuchtung - not installed > installed
Roof lighting
Interior light: light configuration-LIN-Dachkonsole lokal aktivierbar - not active > active
Roof console can be activated locally
  • Your choice here... there is a button on the new panel that turns the ambient light on full bright
  • Set to "not active" this button does nothing, you always control the brightness using infotainment screen
  • Note that it will still come on when the doors open
  • Set to "active" this button will work so you can go full bright, say to look for something, without having to use the screen
  • When you press the button again it should go back to the brightness you have set on screen (need to test this still)
Interior lighting: parameter-p_ambientelicht_verbauinformation_HMI_3 - 00000000 > 00000010
Ambient Light Installation Information HMI (Infotainment Display)
Interior lighting: parameter-p_adaption_kundenwunsch_dach - 0 > 1
Customer request_roof
  • The translation for this is strange, but it determines what percentage of 12V the light can use for brightness
  • Set to "1" is 100%, 12V... Set to "0.5" is 50%, 6V... etc.
  • My choice, set it to "1" then control brightness with the adjustment "sun"

There are also several "conditional" brightness adaptations channels, I'll only list a couple here.
  • On my BCM many of these were set to 100%, even though my car did not have this lighting from factory
  • I would set the entry/exit to 100% (full bright), then the rest are your choice.
Interior lighting: parameter-p_helligkeit_einausstieg_dach - existing > 100%
Brightness on entry/exit (door opened)_roof
Interior lighting: parameter-p_helligkeit_entriegelt_dach - existing > whatever your percent you want
Brightness when doors unlocked
With all of these set you should get a picture like below (will edit with my own picture this weekend) showing an adjustment "sun" for the roof light.
This picture is stolen from the previously (and repeatedly) credited link... https://www.drive2.ru/l/590922080061533902/
Capture.PNG
 
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aegis

Go Kart Champion
Location
Ontario
Car(s)
MK7 GTI
Been following this this thread, insane detail on the installs, much appreciated for people trying to tackle these jobs in the future. I saw the quoted image above and did a triple take, insane level of customization to make this thing your own.

I had a question for the front fog retro, (thanks for all our input on my MIB2 retrofit btw). I'm hoping in the future to get some fogs into my 2015 GTI Autobahn which didn't come with any. Saw some of your posts on the TDI forum, do you have any knowledge if my model will need the BCM upgrade? I came across P/N's 5GM.941.699.A and 700.A from a 2017 GTI S.
 

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Cuzoe

Autocross Champion
Location
Los Angeles
@aegis If you have a VCDS or OBDEleven scan of your BCM I can probably tell if your BCM is compatible. You need pins 5 and 45 present on BCM plug B. If your car had lighting package... or if it has heated seats then your BCM is a highline module, and therefore fog light capable. If neither of those apply you'll have to verify.

Some folks got lucky and got a high BCM even though their car has none of the features that require a high BCM, lucky meaning no low/mid BCM's available at the moment their car was coming down the line.

Another way to check is to try and set the Leuchte channels to fog light (just the red highlighted ones, don't worry about the others for now).
From old memory the BCM will reject the coding if it does not support fogs (meaning no pins)... that was 3 BCM's ago, haha.

(1)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Lasttyp 12,10 - allgemeine Scheinwerfer (6 - LED Modul for LEDs)
(2)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Lampendefektbitposition 12,38
(3)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Fehlerort mittleres Byte DTC-DFCC 12,22
(4)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Lichtfunktion A 12,Nebellicht links
(5)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Lichtfunktion B 12,Abbiegelicht links
(6)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Dimmwert AB 12,100 (127 for LED)

(1)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Lasttyp 13,10 - allgemeine Scheinwerfer (6 - LED Modul for LEDs)
(2)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Lampendefektbitposition 13,42
(3)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Fehlerort mittleres Byte DTC-DFCC 13,23
(4)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Lichtfunktion A 13,Nebellicht rechts
(5)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Lichtfunktion B 13,Abbiegelicht rechts
(6)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Dimmwert AB 13,100 (127 for LED)

Note: The above coding was taken from this thread... and is correct for adding foglights.
 
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