Callsign_Jester
traction is for pussies
Yeah you're looking at $450+ for the whole set. ouch
8
RSMark5's S13 build
- Thread starter RSMark5
- Start date
Yeah you're looking at $450+ for the whole set. ouch
applemonkey
I've got hoes
dayummmm homie....good stuff.
maxgtiturbo
Banned
dude i was looking at cars and saw that 240's are a lot cheaper than i expected... i really cant wait to see what happens with this.
RSMark5
Go Kart Champion
Okay, so back to the old owner is a jackass.
I knew the person who did the body work on this car was a complete jackass (hence the rivets) but I didn't expect this. I knew there was some bondo on the rear quarter pannel and something had been repaired (see pervious pictures) so since I was doing some body work, I figured I'd get to the bottom of it and do it right. Lol I had no idea what I was getting into.
Okay so I didn't get to my camera in time because I had no idea this was going to happen but I started blocking it off with some 80 grit. All i'm sanding on is pure bondo. I'm like wtf. So I block for like 20-30 minutes. Give up, go for the DA. Da goes at it for like 30-45 min with some 60grit. Still nothing. So wtf???? Break out my small 4" grinder and a metal grinding wheeel. What I found was appaling so I grabbed my camera and here we go.
There was more than 1 1/4" of bondo in some parts of this.
Got most of it out of there. Still can't really see whats going on. Back to the DA and some 60grit.
Threw some primer on there to get an idea where I'm at and get a good guide coat on there.
So, I'm going to try and do some work with a slide hammer tomorrow. We'll see what happens. If not then it looks like I'll have to source a patch pannel. That doesn't sound too tough in this community. Man am I glad I spent all those days in the body shop. I'm hoping to have this thing primed by the end of June and looking to make it run by then too but that may be ambitous at this point.
I knew the person who did the body work on this car was a complete jackass (hence the rivets) but I didn't expect this. I knew there was some bondo on the rear quarter pannel and something had been repaired (see pervious pictures) so since I was doing some body work, I figured I'd get to the bottom of it and do it right. Lol I had no idea what I was getting into.
Okay so I didn't get to my camera in time because I had no idea this was going to happen but I started blocking it off with some 80 grit. All i'm sanding on is pure bondo. I'm like wtf. So I block for like 20-30 minutes. Give up, go for the DA. Da goes at it for like 30-45 min with some 60grit. Still nothing. So wtf???? Break out my small 4" grinder and a metal grinding wheeel. What I found was appaling so I grabbed my camera and here we go.
There was more than 1 1/4" of bondo in some parts of this.
Got most of it out of there. Still can't really see whats going on. Back to the DA and some 60grit.
Threw some primer on there to get an idea where I'm at and get a good guide coat on there.
So, I'm going to try and do some work with a slide hammer tomorrow. We'll see what happens. If not then it looks like I'll have to source a patch pannel. That doesn't sound too tough in this community. Man am I glad I spent all those days in the body shop. I'm hoping to have this thing primed by the end of June and looking to make it run by then too but that may be ambitous at this point.
Callsign_Jester
traction is for pussies
1.25" of bondo... YAH BUDDDDDDDDDAY!!!
maxgtiturbo
Banned
good progress.
RSMark5
Go Kart Champion
Do work :thumbsup: Build cost so far.... $456.31.
Total supplies:
1 can of bondo (free from old project)
3 hook and loop sanding disc ($6.31)
1 can of primer (free old project)
1 grinding disc (free didn't harm it at all)
Parts I'm awaiting:
8 head bolts ($37.XX)
1 Head gasket ($9.99)
1 Exhaust gasket ($7.99)
Parts I'm looking for:
Valve cover
Front bumper
Driver door pannel
Carpet set (new no bullshit)
About to be pretty well off for a running S13.
Electricalbox
OMG CAT FTW!
I actually know of people using bedliner spray on interiors for a ghetto yet effective way of soundproofing and covering bare metal. :biggrin:New carpets? Just plastidip the floor, Mark. It'll be like permanent monster mats
5x114.3 so much easier and you will find so much more available.
Lastly, that is a shitload of bondo from the previous owner lol.
Callsign_Jester
traction is for pussies
I saw a white S13 in really nice condition for sale today... I didn't bother to stop and get a closer look at the price but I am tempted.
RSMark5
Go Kart Champion
So I'm going on vacation for a week and when I come back I'm going to really start hammering out this project car. Anyway, for those who are knowledgeable on the subject I have a few questions. And everyone else please your opinions matter too. I really can't decide.
My first thought was to do Black top SR20 and do a turbo swap with a pretty much full rebuild. Pistons rods fueling, turbo, manifold, downpipe, yada yada yadsa. I'd be looking in the 400-425whp range. The motor alone would be $1,700-2k to get it here plus another $3-4k to build and put in the car.
However after some research on KA-T, this may be a real possibility too. I already have the DOHC motor so thats a plus. The motor does not seem to be original to the car so thats a plus too. It seems pretty clean. However, it'd still require a total rebuild and probably .020 over .5 valves rods, pistons, head work, 550 injectors top mount fuel rail, coimplete fuel management, Revjard manifold for a T3, the turbo itself probably GT35R, the 12x24x3 FMIC, piping from AMS, then the 5sp swap. All that would put me in the same $$$ range but probably a tad more HP and the capability to make some more.
I don't think I'm going to be doing much drifing as its not very available here in Eastern NC and I have no idea where I'll be moving to in the coming months. So it will see more auto-x, drag strip, and stoplight to stoplight action.
KA-T is longer stroke, produces more torque but lose a bit in the mid to high end. KA-T is also an iron block vs almunium so there is the weight factor. KA is a 2.4 SR is a 2.0. KA uses a distributor, SR uses.....something else. (I forget what they call it) Each have their advantages and disadvantages.
What mnotor should I build????? Your opinions??
My first thought was to do Black top SR20 and do a turbo swap with a pretty much full rebuild. Pistons rods fueling, turbo, manifold, downpipe, yada yada yadsa. I'd be looking in the 400-425whp range. The motor alone would be $1,700-2k to get it here plus another $3-4k to build and put in the car.
However after some research on KA-T, this may be a real possibility too. I already have the DOHC motor so thats a plus. The motor does not seem to be original to the car so thats a plus too. It seems pretty clean. However, it'd still require a total rebuild and probably .020 over .5 valves rods, pistons, head work, 550 injectors top mount fuel rail, coimplete fuel management, Revjard manifold for a T3, the turbo itself probably GT35R, the 12x24x3 FMIC, piping from AMS, then the 5sp swap. All that would put me in the same $$$ range but probably a tad more HP and the capability to make some more.
I don't think I'm going to be doing much drifing as its not very available here in Eastern NC and I have no idea where I'll be moving to in the coming months. So it will see more auto-x, drag strip, and stoplight to stoplight action.
KA-T is longer stroke, produces more torque but lose a bit in the mid to high end. KA-T is also an iron block vs almunium so there is the weight factor. KA is a 2.4 SR is a 2.0. KA uses a distributor, SR uses.....something else. (I forget what they call it) Each have their advantages and disadvantages.
What mnotor should I build????? Your opinions??
AdvanSuper
Banned
Whichever is easier and cheaper to get parts for.