Today's Best Mounts

[SmoothCat565]

I unplug the ECU and remove its mount, absolutely nothing wrong with doing that.

Thanks I’ll give it another go with ECU off and out of the way

 

[GTI Jake]

Thanks I’ll give it another go with ECU off and out of the way

It helps give better access to the drivers side bolts. That whole wire bundle “runway” unclips by pulling straight up (one end at a time is easiest).

Just be sure to disconnect the battery, then tap the cables on something bare metal around the bay before removing the ECU. I’ve heard horror stories of guys accidentally grounding the positive lead to the ECU, which can nuke it.

 

[SmoothCat565]

It helps give better access to the drivers side bolts. That whole wire bundle “runway” unclips by pulling straight up (one end at a time is easiest).

Just be sure to disconnect the battery, then tap the cables on something bare metal around the bay before removing the ECU. I’ve heard horror stories of guys accidentally grounding the positive lead to the ECU, which can nuke it.

Thanks about the heads up about the ECU precautions. As long as you remove the battery safely (neg post first then pos second, reverse order when reinstalling cables to battery ), and don't somehow accidentally connect the positive post to the ECU with a metal object at any point in time (which would be insane but possible given the proximity and people have done it), I think that takes care of most of the concern. Taking the disconnected battery cables and tapping them to metal might help get rid of any residual charge in the electrical system too. When holding a wrench that you don’t need to be holding, just drop it to the ground. Disconnecting the ECU is done by folding back the lever on both the top and bottom ECU cables, and some upward downward motion and side to side to knock off both connectors. Carefully put aside ECU.

 

[Triple B]

Installed 034 Line Density mounts - seem great, no NVH, however on left hand turns I now get a kind of grinding rubbing noise. Not sure if its crappy tolerances on the 034 mount or what as yet.

 

[SmoothCat565]

Done. Installed the BFI stage 1 trans mount. Hardest parts for me were popping free the plastic cage that covers the wires directly over the 4 x 16mm bolts from the trans mount to the frame but this is easy if you get in there with a flashlight and a pry bar to pop the plastic inserts that go into the frame, getting the guts to unclip the ECU safely, and getting over the fear of lowering my trans and potentially not knowing how to get it back in place.

Tools, like someone said, have a lot of tools. Particularly, get a 5/8" or 16mm box wrench, crows feet set, a universal socket, and wobble extensions (these are needed to get the 4 x 16mm OEM bolts). I recommend all of these tools, not to say you need all of them, but very very helpful. Crows feet was most useful for applying the torque specs on the 4 x 15mm aftermarket bolts to frame.

One more tip, if you are having trouble aligning bolt holes (Because I have this issue every time), take a pry bar and a long flathead or screwdriver and pry the mount towards the holes you are trying to reach and then thread in bolts to keep it there). This was key. I didn't loosen the top bolt on the mount this time to get enough play, didn't have to like i did for the engine mount.

Also when jacking the trans, line the jack up at an angle towards the drivers headlight so the jack is out of the way while you work in the bay.

Okay that does it for me. I will say this to summarize. I installed the BFI stage 1 dogbone insert, engine mount, and trans mount and I still have the feeling that I'm driving a waterbed. Don't get me wrong, the car feels wicked solid now, really impressed, but the forward backward movement is still there - has to be the dogbone bushing or arm.

The car feels more raw now. Like someone said, when you do these mods, the car sounds like what the soundraktor is trying to simulate (My soundraktor is removed btw). I actually love the way the car sounds with the windows up now. I used to always lower them to hear "more" of the car. Now, with windows up, you hear everything working together. Some vibration in the gas pedal when getting on it, which I love the feel of. Clutch chatter from my SMF, a bit louder and different tone, but I enjoy it so it works out. Highly recommend you get to this project at some point if you haven't already.

Thanks for the help in here, greatly appreciate all the advice.

 

[scrllock]

Done. Installed the BFI stage 1 trans mount. Hardest parts for me were popping free the plastic cage that covers the wires directly over the 4 x 16mm bolts from the trans mount to the frame but this is easy if you get in there with a flashlight and a pry bar to pop the plastic inserts that go into the frame, getting the guts to unclip the ECU safely, and getting over the fear of lowering my trans and potentially not knowing how to get it back in place.

Tools, like someone said, have a lot of tools. Particularly, get a 5/8" or 16mm box wrench, crows feet set, a universal socket, and wobble extensions (these are needed to get the 4 x 16mm OEM bolts). I recommend all of these tools, not to say you need all of them, but very very helpful. Crows feet was most useful for applying the torque specs on the 4 x 15mm aftermarket bolts to frame.

One more tip, if you are having trouble aligning bolt holes (Because I have this issue every time), take a pry bar and a long flathead or screwdriver and pry the mount towards the holes you are trying to reach and then thread in bolts to keep it there). This was key. I didn't loosen the top bolt on the mount this time to get enough play, didn't have to like i did for the engine mount.

Also when jacking the trans, line the jack up at an angle towards the drivers headlight so the jack is out of the way while you work in the bay.

Okay that does it for me. I will say this to summarize. I installed the BFI stage 1 dogbone insert, engine mount, and trans mount and I still have the feeling that I'm driving a waterbed. Don't get me wrong, the car feels wicked solid now, really impressed, but the forward backward movement is still there - has to be the dogbone bushing or arm.

The car feels more raw now. Like someone said, when you do these mods, the car sounds like what the soundraktor is trying to simulate (My soundraktor is removed btw). I actually love the way the car sounds with the windows up now. I used to always lower them to hear "more" of the car. Now, with windows up, you hear everything working together. Some vibration in the gas pedal when getting on it, which I love the feel of. Clutch chatter from my SMF, a bit louder and different tone, but I enjoy it so it works out. Highly recommend you get to this project at some point if you haven't already.

Thanks for the help in here, greatly appreciate all the advice.

Most of the play is in the upper dogbone bushing. The simple fix is an insert, but the full unitronic bushing is still my recommendation.

 

[SmoothCat565]

Most of the play is in the upper dogbone bushing. The simple fix is an insert, but the full unitronic bushing is still my recommendation.

Upper dogbone bushing? Upper and lower are used to refer to inserts I thought, not the bushing itself.

Unitronic bushing? Is this better than the Revo mount or the OEM part?

 

[SmoothCat565]

Options that I'm debating for fixing this rocking movement of the engine/trans:

1) Dogbone bushing replacement with OEM part
2) Dogbone bushing replacement with Revo mount part
3) 034 dogbone arm/pendulum mount
4) 034 lower insert
5) 034 upper insert

I think this is the order of most likely to fix the problem. It's probably the dogbone bushing (subframe bushing) than it is the arm I would imagine, but I don't know.

Kinda confused honestly on what I should try next

 

[clownish]

What is the consensus for the new streetsport/tracksport 034 mounts? I know the density line ones are basically just OEM with lipstick but the others seem like an actual improvement. Any one actually run them? I know they're more money than the BFI ones so from a pure value perspective it probably doesn't make sense if they perform the same but DO they perform the same?

I've run 034 track density engine/trans mounts for 60k mi without issues. HPA dogbone replacement, OEM dogbone mount. Lots of NVH. Solid feel. No complaints but this isnt my daily.

 

[scrllock]

Upper dogbone bushing? Upper and lower are used to refer to inserts I thought, not the bushing itself.

Unitronic bushing? Is this better than the Revo mount or the OEM part?

They are inserts that go into either the upper or lower bushing.

I would say that the unitronic bushing is probably more reliable than the others (mixing materials with inserts leads to one or both pieces deteriorating).

In your case you've taken all of the play in the drivetrain out of the engine and trans mounts and moved it into the subframe mount. A better half-measure would be the powerflex hybrid mount, which completely replaces the lower mount (ala revo/HPA) but then also inserts itself into the upper mount, where I think your issue currently is.

 

[SmoothCat565]

They are inserts that go into either the upper or lower bushing.

I would say that the unitronic bushing is probably more reliable than the others (mixing materials with inserts leads to one or both pieces deteriorating).

In your case you've taken all of the play in the drivetrain out of the engine and trans mounts and moved it into the subframe mount. A better half-measure would be the powerflex hybrid mount, which completely replaces the lower mount (ala revo/HPA) but then also inserts itself into the upper mount, where I think your issue currently is.

Back at this again after a long winter. Last summer, I installed a BFI insert in the dogbone insert though and that didn’t fix it. Along with the engine and trans mounts. Still issues. How much different is the BFI dogbone insert stage 2 than the powerflex? The power flex just looks like a different style insert.
Is this the part? https://www.urotuning.com/products/...oogle Shopping&stkn=334b6bf4d9c9&gad_source=1

 

[scrllock]

Back at this again after a long winter. Last summer, I installed a BFI insert in the dogbone insert though and that didn’t fix it. Along with the engine and trans mounts. Still issues. How much different is the BFI dogbone insert stage 2 than the powerflex? The power flex just looks like a different style insert.
Is this the part? https://www.urotuning.com/products/powerflex-front-lower-engine-mount-hybrid-bushing-mk7-vw-8v-audi-post-7-27-16-pff85-833?currency=USD&variant=42276694229185&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&stkn=334b6bf4d9c9&gad_source=1

the bfi insert just sleeves into the lower puck. the powerflex hybrid bushing replaces the lower puck and sleeves into the upper puck.

 

[SmoothCat565]

the bfi insert just sleeves into the lower puck. the powerflex hybrid bushing replaces the lower puck and sleeves into the upper puck.

That makes more sense than anything I’ve heard today. I guess I might Just put that in and keep the stock arm that connects from the subframe to the trans/engine case.

If the power flex hybrid doesn’t do it, then what? This one below?:
https://www.bmptuning.com/products/...MIzdmBppGfhQMVjUxHAR0uDAL4EAQYASABEgJSK_D_BwE

 

[SmoothCat565]

And this is a serious question. Is anyone on these forums in Massachusetts that would know how to diagnose/fix my car? Because my VW shop just told me on a test drive that it’s normal for my car to violently jolt back and forth like a waterbed when letting off the gas in gear, and rock back and forth inefficiently when shifting up higher gears, evennnnn thoughhhhh it never used to be like this and used to be a joy to drive…and he also didn’t recommend I go through with the dogbone bushing replacement. I thanked him for reassuring me everything was just fine with the car.

 

[scrllock]

That makes more sense than anything I’ve heard today. I guess I might Just put that in and keep the stock arm that connects from the subframe to the trans/engine case.

If the power flex hybrid doesn’t do it, then what? This one below?:
https://www.bmptuning.com/products/...MIzdmBppGfhQMVjUxHAR0uDAL4EAQYASABEgJSK_D_BwE

which motor/trans mounts are you using?

The unitronic dogbone mount definitely stops most front/back movement assuming your motor/trans mounts aren't shot.