FML, wrenching today turned out bad

[thxrick]

I'll run out and check where the CTS is located, normally lower coolant hose. I'll see what it might have rubbed against.

Will update post shortly.

Are you serious? That shit is f'd up though. Smelled bad and leaked a whole lot of coolant all over my driveway!

 

[Wrath And Tears]

Are you serious? That shit is f'd up though. Smelled bad and leaked a whole lot of coolant all over my driveway!

Alright took a look, that is the lower coolant hose (or rather the coolant temp sensor, CTS, flange) where it attaches to the radiator. It is directly across from the drive belt. It looks like while you were moving the car with the bolt out (bad idea, but you didn't know and I didn't know this could happen), the engine moved forwards enough for the drive belt to make contact for an extended period of time. The friction wore through the thermal plastic of the coupler (that is spelled wrong I think but google won't fix it for me ) enough to cause a pin hole leak. You can see it in the photo. This would cause a stream of coolant to spray on the engine and drive belt. Which would explain the smell.

If your tech hasn't looked, or mentioned it, I would have him examine the drive belt and probably replace it. It might be coolant soaked and or compromised due to wear.

Edit: Sorry for the beef, didn't mean to insult your tech, thus the edit. That being said it took me longer to type this edit, then to figure what happened and be able to explain it to my wife .

 

[thxrick]

Alright took a look, that is the lower coolant hose (or rather the coolant temp sensor, CTS, flange) where it attaches to the radiator. It is directly across from the drive belt. It looks like while you were moving the car with the bolt out (bad idea, but you didn't know and I didn't know this could happen), the engine moved forwards enough for the drive belt to make contact for an extended period of time. The friction wore through the thermal plastic of the coupler (that is spelled wrong I think but google won't fix it for me ) enough to cause a pin hole leak. You can see it in the photo. This would cause a stream of coolant to spray on the engine and drive belt. Which would explain the smell.

If your tech hasn't looked, or mentioned it, I would have him examine the drive belt and probably replace it. It might be coolant soaked and or compromised due to wear.

Edit: Sorry for the beef, didn't mean to insult your tech, thus the edit. That being said it took me longer to type this edit, then to figure what happened and be able to explain it to my wife .

Makes sense. He mentioned the drive belt in some fashion. I don't know...It's going to cost me a chunk of change, I should have know better.

Thanks for the apology....back at you. I have a temper and sometimes fly off the handle. Im sorry for being a dick. Thanks for looking at that. I'll let you know the "damage". the good thing is my guy is very through and has it figured out.

The pisser is, I just dropped $1400 on my 335 in the last 2 weeks...uggh. Gotta pay to play!

 

[Diggs24]

Radiator and a belt only hopefully. If electrical connector got hit too that will certainly add to it. Appears like it might have missed that.

 

[cb1111]

OK you two, get a room already....

 

[thxrick]

OK you two, get a room already....

Ha! this thread turned out better than most thought! Wrath is now on my Christmas card list.

 

[Wrath And Tears]

Radiator and a belt only hopefully. If electrical connector got hit too that will certainly add to it. Appears like it might have missed that.

It's not the radiator, but rather the lower radiator hose quick disconnect fitting which houses the coolant temp sensor. Radiator should be fine unless I missed him saying something about that. From the picture the most forward part of the A/C compressor (in hindsight it might have been the compressor pulley and not the belt rubbing, or possibly both), is what would have been touching, you can see the round outline of the pulley. No damage past the CTS retaining clip which is still intact. So the connector is fine and due to the routing so is the wiring.

As an exercise I encourage people to pop the hood and look down and figure out what happened. Even I possibly messed it up the first time blaming the belt instead of the pulley (although it could be both depending how the engine shifted).

OK you two, get a room already....

If I had a dollar for every room I need to get to make up with some one, I would have like $10!!!! and probably a few STD's.... They always claim the condom just rips, I don't get it.

Ha! this thread turned out better than most thought! Wrath is now on my Christmas card list.

Always happy to help out.

 

[cb1111]

It's not the radiator, but rather the lower radiator hose quick disconnect fitting which houses the coolant temp sensor. Radiator should be fine unless I missed him saying something about that.

Yep. It sounds like it really was a "quick disconnect"

If I had a dollar for every room I need to get to make up with some one, I would have like $10!!!! and probably a few STD's.... They always claim the condom just rips, I don't get it.

HA

Always happy to help out.

Yep, sometimes we all need to take a chill pill but the bottom line is that most are very helpful here.

 

[thxrick]

Yep, sometimes we all need to take a chill pill but the bottom line is that most are very helpful here.

So much love..*tears*. For real, thanks guys. Great forum. I will be less of an A$$..

 

[TheGreekFreak]

Interesting thread....for many strange reasons lol

Yeah...sigh....just brutal. It's such an "easy' install....pisses me off I may have banged it up. Honestly, I am coming off a 997 911 C2s so I am fairly immune to large repair/maintenance bills. Doesn't make it feel any better, though.

Off topic but what was up with the 997? The financially irresponsible side of me has been flirting with the idea of picking up an S in the future as a 2nd car.

Can't afford any air cooled ones and while 996s are a good value, I hate the look. From what I've been reading, IMS issues aside, they sound fairly reliable?

 

[thxrick]

Interesting thread....for many strange reasons lol



Off topic but what was up with the 997? The financially irresponsible side of me has been flirting with the idea of picking up an S in the future as a 2nd car.

Can't afford any air cooled ones and while 996s are a good value, I hate the look. From what I've been reading, IMS issues aside, they sound fairly reliable?

Funny that you ask. I had always wanted a 911. Found a nice deal on one about 2 hrs. south of me in Melbourne, FL. 2007 C2s with 31k on it. One Owner. Bought it cash with a 3/36 warranty that cost 5k.

Liked the car, didn't "love" it. The brakes and handling are amazing, like Kate Upton body, amazing. Other than that, just OK. I got bored then tried to sell it. Was an awful experience: low ballers galore, just brutal. Found my GTI at a local dealer: 6MT, 2 door and low miles. My family has always been a
VW family. I traded it in and got the GTI and a nice check. I haven't looked back. I put about 5k into that 911 too.

My plan was to keep the GTI for a year or two and buy a 911 turbo..997, low miles. Trade in or sell the GTI. At this point, I have so much fun driving the GTI. I have an e90 335i tuned and nice as my DD. I split time between them. the thought of spending the money on another Porsche friegthens me: $310 for an oil change at my indy, $390 for an alignment, etc.... it gets old.

I'm a car "junkie"...will keep the GTI and the Bimmer.

 

[thxrick]

TheGreekFreak, Should you consider buying a 911, feel free to consult me. I did end up using the warranty: $4,200 and $336. When I traded it in the residual value of it was like $3400...so I was "in the money" feel free to reach out.

 

[Wrath And Tears]

Just popped into my head that most or all of the damage would have been caused when reversing. That would cause the lower part of the engine to move forward, or I guess if the front of the car was pointed downhill.

 

[777-300ER]

Wait, did you move the motor too far and not actually get the bolt thru the hole so the dogbone was disconnected? Probably should check that out before you start it. It would make sense as that would let the motor be more pitched than normal, allowing contact between the drive belt and the radiator.

 

[Wrath And Tears]

Wait, did you move the motor too far and not actually get the bolt thru the hole so the dogbone was disconnected? Probably should check that out before you start it. It would make sense as that would let the motor be more pitched than normal, allowing contact between the drive belt and the radiator.

I'm not sure why exactly, but OP can confirm / elaborate, but he removed the bolt completely and then started the engine and moved the car after lowering it from the jack stands, and moving the car onto the ramps for better access. I'll go back and read to confirm.

Without the main bolt in, yes the dogbone bolt, I started the car and moved it just slightly....no doubt this created all of the havoc. Funny thing is the bolt ended up lining up and I torqued it down to spec.

^ This is how the damage happened.

As an experienced tech, and an enthusiast who has messed with the dogbone mount multiple times, I didn't know doing this would cause the issue it did, so while it seems /palmface worthy in hindsight, its not something that would cross your mind at first as a possible issue.

After seeing the damage and doing a visual inspection it makes sense, just surprising.