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Clutch upgrade questions

ccramerusc

New member
Location
Milwaukee, WI
Car(s)
17' GTI SE
Help! I think I killed my LSD. It wouldn't go back on all the way after I got it up over the swingarm. It slid onto the shaft but there was about a 1/2 inch gap that wouldn't close with the transmission, so I used the 4 bolts to slowly pull it together. The tines were aligned because I could turn the gears inside the transmission by turning the passenger side axle cup. I heard a small pop and all of a sudden it cinched up and I got happy. Then I looked under the car and saw a pool of Haldex fluid and the shaft had been pushed out. I am no longer happy. What do I do know? It doesn't just slide back in. Should I pull it apart? Is a dealer my only option? I pulled it back out and this is what it looks like now.
20220109_122229.jpg
 
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GTIfan99

Autocross Champion
Location
FL
Now I'm 100% paying to have my clutch done.

@jay745 you want a break from that Chicago weather? I spent the morning playing tennis and had lunch at the pool in 80 degree weather.
 

golfdave

Autocross Champion
Location
Scotland (U.K.)
Car(s)
Mk7 Golf GT Estate
Help! I think I killed my LSD. It wouldn't go back on all the way after I got it up over the swingarm. It slid onto the shaft but there was about a 1/2 inch gap that wouldn't close with the transmission, so I used the 4 bolts to slowly pull it together. The tines were aligned because I could turn the gears inside the transmission by turning the passenger side axle cup. I heard a small pop and all of a sudden it cinched up and I got happy. Then I looked under the car and saw a pool of Haldex fluid and the shaft had been pushed out. I am no longer happy. What do I do know? It doesn't just slide back in. Should I pull it apart? Is a dealer my only option? I pulled it back out and this is what it looks like now.View attachment 235150

If you heard a pop & have Haldex fluid, you might have compressed the clutch pack & burst the oil seal/bearing...or you've broken something inside....the diff slidesd back on...don't use the bolts to pull it back...you ned to align it 100%, much like a clutch...

ERWIN workshop page for re-installing the VAQ unit..I've highlight in red a warning...

VAQ unit refit.jpg
 

Acadia18

Autocross Champion
Location
The Greater Boston Metropolitan Area
Car(s)
2019 Golf R
Ouch, that sucks.

"I did X...."

golfdave comes in "Here's a big warning saying don't do X..."
 

ccramerusc

New member
Location
Milwaukee, WI
Car(s)
17' GTI SE
Yep, that explains it. I really wish I would have had that information this morning... I gave it to a friend who is an old school tool and die maker. He's going to take it to work tomorrow and see if he can press it back in. If that doesn't work I'll order a used one from ebay. I saw a couple available in Europe.

Should have had the pros do it.
 

Daks

Autocross Champion
Location
Toronto
Car(s)
GTI PP
Replace the entire kit, flywheel included.
Don't do it yourself - it's a hard job.
Indy shop will charge less.
Some people (myself included) replace the RMS with an upgraded unit - others don't - there is divide on this issue.
 

Acadia18

Autocross Champion
Location
The Greater Boston Metropolitan Area
Car(s)
2019 Golf R
Didn't want to. But if we all listened to what we each had to say, so much time, money and headaches would be saved.

I'm pretty sure Jay offered to do it for him, which would have even been even cheaper than an indie shop.

At the same time, I can understand wanting to do something yourself and learning. But being able to judge what jobs you can do on your own and not get in over your head is a valuable skill.
 

DSC808

Autocross Champion
Location
HI State
Car(s)
2016 GTI SE MT
Your pain is our entertainment.

I give you A for effort good sir.

*edit*
How much for the broken LSD? 😬
 
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golfdave

Autocross Champion
Location
Scotland (U.K.)
Car(s)
Mk7 Golf GT Estate
Ouch, that sucks.

"I did X...."

golfdave comes in "Here's a big warning saying don't do X..."

Damn, people rolling by just to rub in some salt. 😂

Actually "ccramerusc" PM'd me asking for info on why its gone wrong..

I'm pretty sure Jay offered to do it for him, which would have even been even cheaper than an indie shop.

At the same time, I can understand wanting to do something yourself and learning. But being able to judge what jobs you can do on your own and not get in over your head is a valuable skill.


To be fair its an easy job...BUT....as the shaft from the VAQ unit that goes into the open diff has to be 100% aligned, the "difficulty" is made easier when you have the car in the air on a 2 or 4 post lift so you have two people holding the unit to get the shaft going in level.

If you're on the ground with jacks/stands/ramps, you have to use bolts to support the VAQ unit...preferably longer ones (acting as dowels) which allow you back the shaft out & try again...

I reckon he got the shaft in not 100% level & the teeth on the shaft caught the diff teeth, but one tooth up out from 100% level...so the unit was say 95% level, then by tightening the bolts down the shaft which is not level pushed back distorting its own oil seals...

TBH people sometimes complain that my "How to guides" are too long, I like to include ALL the possible problems etc...."forewarned is forearmed".. :cool:
 

ccramerusc

New member
Location
Milwaukee, WI
Car(s)
17' GTI SE
I figured I'd post a follow up. The LSD shaft ended up going back into position inside the differential with only firm hand pressure once it was lined up perfectly straight. So no hydraulic press was needed. I refilled it with Haldex, tipped it in every direction possible to check for leaks, and finding none, carefully reinstalled it in the car. After about 10 more attempts, it did finally go on flush with the transmission as it should. I guess it just had to be lined up perfectly. I bolted it on, attached the axle and all the intake parts, and took it for a ride. Clutch felt stiff and the friction point was very close to the floor, but they have both already improved over the past few days. I tested the diff by stopping on a hard pack snow patch with one front tire and the other on dry pavement. Then, with traction control off, I took off fairly hard. The diff did it's job and the pavement tire grabbed hard to launch me forward. I'll wait a couple hundred more miles before pushing it hard.

So everything works as it should. I'll periodically check for Haldex leaks, but I'm feeling pretty good about it. So thankfully it only cost me one extra day of worrying and no extra money. The only tools I had to buy to do the job was an engine support bar ($80) and a 12-point 9mm socket ($3) to get the stock pressure plate off. Otherwise, I am happy to say I replaced my stock clutch with a new Sachs Performance clutch and upgraded to an iAbed RMS in my garage on jack stands. It took me about 12 hours over 3 days, but much of that was me taking my time and cleaning every part that came out before it went back in. Plus lots of extra time because I could never find the right socket/adapter when/where I needed it. Does anyone need an engine support bar? Hopefully I'll never need mine again.

Thanks again to all of you who gave me advice.
 

-DK-

Go Kart Champion
Location
Bay Area
Car(s)
2017 GTI SE
Nice glad it worked out and happy to hear the diff wasn’t FUBAR.
 

Dubbguy

New member
Location
Louisiana
Car(s)
2018 GTI 6MT
I figured I'd post a follow up. The LSD shaft ended up going back into position inside the differential with only firm hand pressure once it was lined up perfectly straight. So no hydraulic press was needed. I refilled it with Haldex, tipped it in every direction possible to check for leaks, and finding none, carefully reinstalled it in the car. After about 10 more attempts, it did finally go on flush with the transmission as it should. I guess it just had to be lined up perfectly. I bolted it on, attached the axle and all the intake parts, and took it for a ride. Clutch felt stiff and the friction point was very close to the floor, but they have both already improved over the past few days. I tested the diff by stopping on a hard pack snow patch with one front tire and the other on dry pavement. Then, with traction control off, I took off fairly hard. The diff did it's job and the pavement tire grabbed hard to launch me forward. I'll wait a couple hundred more miles before pushing it hard.

So everything works as it should. I'll periodically check for Haldex leaks, but I'm feeling pretty good about it. So thankfully it only cost me one extra day of worrying and no extra money. The only tools I had to buy to do the job was an engine support bar ($80) and a 12-point 9mm socket ($3) to get the stock pressure plate off. Otherwise, I am happy to say I replaced my stock clutch with a new Sachs Performance clutch and upgraded to an iAbed RMS in my garage on jack stands. It took me about 12 hours over 3 days, but much of that was me taking my time and cleaning every part that came out before it went back in. Plus lots of extra time because I could never find the right socket/adapter when/where I needed it. Does anyone need an engine support bar? Hopefully I'll never need mine again.

Thanks again to all of you who gave me advice.
Same thing happened to me. I replaced mine in 2020 in my driveway over the course of 3 days. Guess I got lucky with my LSD. the only issue I had was I could not manage to disconnect the wiring harness. I replaced the iabed as well along with a ECS dog-bone setup and CTS Trans Mount. I bought a barely used DKM Twin Disk MF from a friend. Exactly the same thing with the correct sockets/etc. How are you enjoying the Sachs Performance? My DKM has put tremendous wear on my calf and hip lol. Since then I have done 3 more Clutch replacement jobs for/with fellow GTI owners a MK6 and MK7.
 
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