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Hoon's DIYish Engine Build Thread

railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona

billbadass

Drag Racing Champion
Location
your moms house
F yeah. this is going to be epic. I know it sucks to do it when building fast cars but also curious on what the total cost ends up being in parts by the time it's all back together and running good.

will be nice to throw all the boosts at the motor too though and not worry a wink about it.

I think Ed said that COBB has potential or boost by gear in all gears?
 

railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona
F yeah. this is going to be epic. I know it sucks to do it when building fast cars but also curious on what the total cost ends up being in parts by the time it's all back together and running good.



will be nice to throw all the boosts at the motor too though and not worry a wink about it.



I think Ed said that COBB has potential or boost by gear in all gears?
Our limiting factor after this will be the stock clutch packs so the torque will still have to be limited

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Hoon

Autocross Champion
Location
Rhode Island
Matt, what was the deciding factor to go with the JE pistons vs Mahle? Also with the Brute rods vs Tuscan I-Beam rods.


So, couple things, more about value than cost.

The JEs are $300 cheaper than the IE spec Mahle. I attribute $50 to the material and $250 to the premium IE charges for the name. JE makes an excellent piston and so does Mahle. The only notable difference i can find is the alloy. There are typically 2 alloys for forged pistons, 4032 and 2618. 4032 has less thermal expansion, and does not wear as quickly, but is not quite as strong as 2618. 2618 requires a sloppy clearance to the bore, wears out more quickly, but is extremely strong. Essentially, 4032 is a good high power street/track piston, 2618 is an all out race piston designed to be used at a level where pistons are a normal consumable.

IE/Mahle uses a proprietary alloy which they claim has the thermal expansion of 4032, but strength closer to 2618. Whether that claim is true or not, i don't know. Regardless, I don't need an extreme strength piston, this isn't a 1000+hp application. I'm perfectly content to go with the JE piston that has been proven over 900whp in TSI engines and is made from a material that is the standard for high power street cars.

As for the rods, the Brute IX rod is very similar to the Tuscan (both 4340 steel, I Beam rods). Both are FAR stronger than i will ever need, but the Brute IX is $150 cheaper...about the same cost as IEs lower end H-beam rod with their recommended rifle drilling (not needed on the I-beam rods).

IE makes good stuff from what i've seen, but they price their products with a premium that isn't justified IMO.

Any thoughts on different exhaust valves? Are stock valves enough to handle higher EGT from upgraded turbos/tunes?

IDK if you were running an oil cooler. Would be a good time to install the iAbed kit.

Yes, will be looking at the condition of my current valves carefully and will make a decision from there. No oil cooler, i don't track it so no need. I've never seen oil temps above 240.


F yeah. this is going to be epic. I know it sucks to do it when building fast cars but also curious on what the total cost ends up being in parts by the time it's all back together and running good.

will be nice to throw all the boosts at the motor too though and not worry a wink about it.

I think Ed said that COBB has potential or boost by gear in all gears?

I'm on Maestro, but yes we can do TQ by gear (essentially the same thing).


It would be nice to keep it around $3K but the budget comes second to putting a solid motor together.


subscribed. I better be able to build an engine after this DIY

Thats my goal...for people to be able to have most of the info needed to DIY most of the job.
 

billbadass

Drag Racing Champion
Location
your moms house
with a sticky tire some good traction management and 550 peak whp or more this thing is going to hurt some feelings. should be hilarious and I know how frustrating it is to blow up a motor but going to be well worth $3k to run around and laugh out loud at how rowdy a sleepy looking VW hatchback can be, and should be super reliable once all said and done too
 

rotaryguy

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
FL
Our limiting factor after this will be the stock clutch packs so the torque will still have to be limited

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Not always the clutch pack...
This is from the input shaft out of my dq250 with less than 30k. Was a sad day.




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railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona

ITGUY

Autocross Newbie
Location
PA
I can not quiet tell what that is.. A transmission part? Can you give a bit more detail than a photo? Thanks

Hey Hoon can we get links to where you are purchasing your parts also? Thanks
 
Last edited:

rotaryguy

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
FL
I can not quiet tell what that is.. A transmission part? Can you give a bit more detail than a photo? Thanks



Yeah sorry I edited the post.

This is from the input shaft out of my dq250 with less than 30k. Was a sad day.


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