How do I install HID's into replica headlights??

[OnePerfectDose]

i haven't gotten around to installing since i made this thread. i live in nyc and the weather has been terrible, keeps snowing and freezing cold temps. no garage either. i am waiting for a half way decent day to do this.

also i did not buy a can bus ballast. i bought a reg. one with a relay kit. will i def. get errors when i install these? should have i gotten the can bus version? i def. dont want error lights from these.

With the HID's and headlights you can completely install them inside of the lights. This way when you do actual install on vehicle its just put the lights on the car and connect the connector. It will reduce your install time while stuck inside with the bad weather.

Came across this picture from searching.. What do i do with the red and black prongs that are circled in black. Basically thought i figured this out now im like huh whats that??

Those spade connections plug into your H7 harness from Depo. That is what supplies power to your ballasts. The black grommet on the wires you can cut off since you can install in a completely sealed fashion. Most lights require drilling holes therefore the grommet.

As for the harness they aren't required. I've never used a harness, you can always get around it and it provides a much cleaner installation. I wouldn't advise adding/running additional wires unless you truly understand how to safely run wire and potential issues it can cause. Also this means you either have to drill a hole into the light housing or tap the headlight wire in the engine bay to trigger the relay, again in your climate, not advised.

An improper fuse in your harness could mean a potential fire/excess heat if current is exceeded for wire gauge and length. Wire harnesses add an additional element which can be avoided with plug and play options like error free ballast, can bus cancellors, or vag coding.

View my headlight group buy which explains some HID installation questions. These may be worst case scenarios of a harness but need to also be considered and understood.

 

[xd-data-ii]

Dose, by "harness" do you mean something else that is not shown in the picture that was posted?
Doesn't the config shown show the power in through the black circle to the blue circle (match them) then through a relay type thing then into the Ballast then out of the ballast through red and yellow connectors through the grommet to the bulb?

Is the harness something else? I've only seen per above and I guess that is that the relay and/or the ballast has the can-bus cancelling included.

 

[Lucky#Slevin]

They are the connections that go into the wiring inside the headlight. Everything else connectors together, per the picture, as part of the hid kit. The red and black pins are the connection into the headlight wiring that normally goes to the halogen bulb.
I would think they go into the headlight plug shown on page 2 of Dose's instructions (linked in previous posts).

Ok this makes sense.. I have to check the instructions again because I don't know how the spades actually connect..

 

[Lucky#Slevin]

It's safer to use the wiring harness from TRS but it's much easier to wire without it. I also was unable to get rid of a bulb out error until I skipped the harness. I'm actually doing the same thing as you and will hopefully be installing them next week.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

Pictured is an external can bus error canceler from TRS; this is not a relay switch. I thought I had to use the can bus canceler to prevent a bulb out error message. Did you use an error canceler or a relay switch? Are you saying that you connected ballast straight to car and did not receive error message? I would prefer to install without any additional wiring?

 

[Lucky#Slevin]

With the HID's and headlights you can completely install them inside of the lights. This way when you do actual install on vehicle its just put the lights on the car and connect the connector. It will reduce your install time while stuck inside with the bad weather.

+1 :thumbsup: I didn't realize I could do this.. Gonna help me a lot!!


Those spade connections plug into your H7 harness from Depo. That is what supplies power to your ballasts. The black grommet on the wires you can cut off since you can install in a completely sealed fashion. Most lights require drilling holes therefore the grommet.

I gotta check instructions because I don't know how to actually connect spades into headlights..

As for the harness they aren't required. I've never used a harness, you can always get around it and it provides a much cleaner installation. I wouldn't advise adding/running additional wires unless you truly understand how to safely run wire and potential issues it can cause. Also this means you either have to drill a hole into the light housing or tap the headlight wire in the engine bay to trigger the relay, again in your climate, not advised.

An improper fuse in your harness could mean a potential fire/excess heat if current is exceeded for wire gauge and length. Wire harnesses add an additional element which can be avoided with plug and play options like error free ballast, can bus cancellors, or vag coding.

View my headlight group buy which explains some HID installation questions. These may be worst case scenarios of a harness but need to also be considered and understood.

I rather not use any external wiring but I thought I had to run the can bus canceler as pictured to avoid a bulb out error? I don't think TRS sells internal can bus ballasts and I like the quality of their stuff. If I ran the setup pictured I assume I would have to cut into the rubber gasket? Does the external can bus canceler have to be powered separately and externally? Do I have to splice it or connect direct to battery?

I assume if I run ballast direct to car I will def. get an error message? Can I get rid of it thru vagcom or it doesn't go away? I know I am annoying..

 

[StigsFatAmericanCousin]

Pictured is an external can bus error canceler from TRS; this is not a relay switch. I thought I had to use the can bus canceler to prevent a bulb out error message. Did you use an error canceler or a relay switch? Are you saying that you connected ballast straight to car and did not receive error message? I would prefer to install without any additional wiring?

I was initially using a relay harness with an inline fuse. Now I just have "error cancellers". I did have to do coding but that was with the stock halogen housing, not depos.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

 

[OnePerfectDose]

Dose, by "harness" do you mean something else that is not shown in the picture that was posted?
Doesn't the config shown show the power in through the black circle to the blue circle (match them) then through a relay type thing then into the Ballast then out of the ballast through red and yellow connectors through the grommet to the bulb?

Is the harness something else? I've only seen per above and I guess that is that the relay and/or the ballast has the can-bus cancelling included.

Correct, The harness is separate piece a LOT of places sell people on. It wires up to the battery and ground. It powers the ballast via relay built into harness triggered by headlight wire.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Xenon-HID-C...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd58c6e31&vxp=mtr

Ok this makes sense.. I have to check the instructions again because I don't know how the spades actually connect..

The spades just push into the H7 holder. Imagine removing the pins off the back of your H7 and that is what those are, just push them in.

Pictured is an external can bus error canceler from TRS; this is not a relay switch. I thought I had to use the can bus canceler to prevent a bulb out error message. Did you use an error canceler or a relay switch? Are you saying that you connected ballast straight to car and did not receive error message? I would prefer to install without any additional wiring?

The cancellers plug inline. It goes car connector, can bus canceller, ballast. Some ballast have it built in (error free) some don't so you add them. USP from what I have heard are error free. If TRS says error free you may just need the coding of Byte 19 to solve any misfire issues.

Here is an example of canceller
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Universal...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ace35f25c&vxp=mtr

I rather not use any external wiring but I thought I had to run the can bus canceler as pictured to avoid a bulb out error? I don't think TRS sells internal can bus ballasts and I like the quality of their stuff. If I ran the setup pictured I assume I would have to cut into the rubber gasket? Does the external can bus canceler have to be powered separately and externally? Do I have to splice it or connect direct to battery?

I assume if I run ballast direct to car I will def. get an error message? Can I get rid of it thru vagcom or it doesn't go away? I know I am annoying..

The rubber gasket which is usually attached to the bulb can be removed. That is for if you cant mount the ballast within the headlight. Above covers the external Can Bus Cancellers and has ebay link to image.

Vagcom Byte 19 solves the misfire issue. Cancellers also help balance load so it doesn't think the bulb is out.

I was initially using a relay harness with an inline fuse. Now I just have "error cancellers". I did have to do coding but that was with the stock halogen housing, not depos.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

Coding is valid for both. I have OEM HID's and coded byte 19 for HID fogs and fixed immediately the error and misfires.

 

[Lucky#Slevin]

^^ ok thanks for the info.. I really now have a solid understanding of how these should be wired up.. Still haven't attempted yet..

 

[xd-data-ii]

But do even have them in front of you? Or are you preparing for when they arrive.
Surely just simply looking at what you have would be able to make sense of it.
Simply you are just unplugging the h7 bulb and connecting the wires to the hid kit instead. Put in the xenon bulb and stuff the hid kit inside the headlight. Seal it up. Done.
Then I suppose put the headlights on the car.

 

[Lucky#Slevin]

Xd data where are you??!!
Ok now what?? I think i got it but unsure of a few things.. Do the spade connectors go the depo plug? The one with the yellow and black wire? If so black to black, yellpw to red? And i assume the green and black is the turn signal? And what about the bottom left multi prong plug? Does that connect to the vehicle??

I think i got it figured out just need some help.. I never installed headlights and hid before..

 

[OnePerfectDose]

Xd data where are you??!!
Ok now what?? I think i got it but unsure of a few things.. Do the spade connectors go the depo plug? The one with the yellow and black wire? If so black to black, yellpw to red? And i assume the green and black is the turn signal? And what about the bottom left multi prong plug? Does that connect to the vehicle??

I think i got it figured out just need some help.. I never installed headlights and hid before..

Correct. The spade connectors from the HID's connect to the black and yellow of Depo. Black/Black and Yellow/Red is correct.

The big connector connects to the vehicle.

The Green/Black Wires connect to the turn signal.

Mount the black ballast on the turn signal side and run wires over to HL projector. Then seal up. Make sure not a humid day or it can cause condensation.

 

[Lucky#Slevin]

Correct. The spade connectors from the HID's connect to the black and yellow of Depo. Black/Black and Yellow/Red is correct.

The big connector connects to the vehicle.

The Green/Black Wires connect to the turn signal.

Mount the black ballast on the turn signal side and run wires over to HL projector. Then seal up. Make sure not a humid day or it can cause condensation.

Ok great!! Just one thing I fit the canceller and ballast into the low beam side? Is that ok? Played around but it fit.. Didn't force it or anything..

 

[OnePerfectDose]

Ok great!! Just one thing I fit the canceller and ballast into the low beam side? Is that ok? Played around but it fit.. Didn't force it or anything..

As long as it fit with no force you are good. Make sure the movement of the adjusters is good and not compromised. Once installed you may have to adjust the Beige Allen screws on the outside.

Also make sure the Rubber cap is completely sealed without pushing on them so you don't compromise the sealing against water.

 

[Lucky#Slevin]

As long as it fit with no force you are good. Make sure the movement of the adjusters is good and not compromised. Once installed you may have to adjust the Beige Allen screws on the outside.

Also make sure the Rubber cap is completely sealed without pushing on them so you don't compromise the sealing against water.

Yes it was a snug fit but I did not force anything.. Maybe squeezed a few wires and moved around some stuff but pretty gently.. Yes I kno about the adjusters and I did not push any thing up against the projector.. Cap went on no problem.. Flush..

Now to take the bumper off..

 

[Lucky#Slevin]

How the hell do i get this stock plug off!!! Middle of install.. Can not get this thing off!!! Someone please advise..

I just have to unplug these plug in new headlights and reattach bumper.. Smh