torga
Autocross Champion
Thanks! I'll definitely consider both.
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torga's Daily Build - black, 6mt, two-door shenanigans
- Thread starter torga
- Start date
torga
Autocross Champion
Finally installed a Vibrant J spacer today after running with an O2 CEL for about 2 weeks. I tried this last week and the spacer just would not thread into the DP bung. So I ordered a different one, thinking the threads were wrong. Turns out the threads were just fine. In fact, too fine. They were either cut on a lathe, or the die used was in excellent shape because those threads were sharp. So sharp that within a 1-1.5 turns, it would bind up in the bung.
So I really didn't feel like going to go get an expensive O2 tap, and I had an extra J spacer.... so I threaded the other spacer into the one on the DP and that gave me enough leverage to run the spacer into the bung. All done now.
I had a legitimate Vibrant J spacer and a "knock off". I ended up using the knock off because there didn't seem to be a difference in quality, visually. Both were made of stainless. Also, the flow adapters had closer tolerances on the knock off spacer, so they didn't rattle in their space when the snap ring was installed. Unlike the Vibrant spacer, which rattled a lot.
So I really didn't feel like going to go get an expensive O2 tap, and I had an extra J spacer.... so I threaded the other spacer into the one on the DP and that gave me enough leverage to run the spacer into the bung. All done now.
I had a legitimate Vibrant J spacer and a "knock off". I ended up using the knock off because there didn't seem to be a difference in quality, visually. Both were made of stainless. Also, the flow adapters had closer tolerances on the knock off spacer, so they didn't rattle in their space when the snap ring was installed. Unlike the Vibrant spacer, which rattled a lot.
torga
Autocross Champion
I only just realized that the front chin spoiler on my car was not standard in the US (I think). Seems the previous owner installed either an OEM part or a knockoff chin spoiler.
The GTI grille on it before I swapped to an OEM low-line grille was a knock-off, so I wouldn't be surprised if the chin spoiler is, too.
The GTI grille on it before I swapped to an OEM low-line grille was a knock-off, so I wouldn't be surprised if the chin spoiler is, too.
torga
Autocross Champion
Small mod: I installed a Burger Motorsports clutch stop last night. Driving to work this morning was odd, having to get used to the new bite point; I took off approx. 1/2" of dead travel, but left approx. 1/4" of dead travel since I don't want the clutch lightly chattering when disengaged.
I started to get the hang of it by the time I got to work. I pretty much just have to shift faster; all the dead travel from before just let me be lazy with my shifts. Hopefully this will make the shifts more predictable.
I started to get the hang of it by the time I got to work. I pretty much just have to shift faster; all the dead travel from before just let me be lazy with my shifts. Hopefully this will make the shifts more predictable.
Allchokedup
Autocross Champion
I ran the arm fmic without deleting the stock ic. If you dont plan on keeping your car forever it's less work if you leave stock ic. I myself will have my car until it dies just put a new motor in it.
I thought I would save some weight with taking off the stock ic but at best it might have weighed 10#..
I thought I would save some weight with taking off the stock ic but at best it might have weighed 10#..
jay745
What Would Glenn Danzig Do
It's more about airflow restriction. Putting a big fmic in and leaving the dead core in there means your radiator is barely getting any airflow. If you track the car you'll have water temp issues. I ditched the neuspeed fmic I had and went back to an oem location ic for that reason.
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torga
Autocross Champion
This is the main reason I'm removing the stock IC; I don't want to cut my IAT only to raise my average water temp. I liked the idea of a stock location IC like Unitronic's. But I got such a screaming deal on this ARM unit that I decided to go this route. All-in, even with the stock IC delete brackets, I'm only at $340.
As for cutting my workload if I de-mod/sell the car... I already have to remove the whole front bumper to uninstall the FMIC, so what's an extra half hour to stick the stock IC back in if I've already got all the stuff off anyway?
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torga
Autocross Champion
These coils go low, but the ride is a bit potato; I suspect the previous owner just wanted to drop a quick few inches. I want to stay roughly the same height, but I need better quality. I'm likely going with YCW's Aeris set, but still considering BC BR coils. I'll probably take the plunge on these this spring. Also doing aluminum Passat arms, TT-RS bushings, ball joints, tie rods, the works.
GolNat
Autocross Champion
Lol potato ride is no good!!
I know BC from the Honda world and they are a quality set up. I have also been considering them and will probably go that route. I have owned both types of coilovers and preferred the fully adjustable sleeve style which both of your choices have. Good idea on doing all the other stuff while you are at it. I am not at that point mileage wise but when I get there I will be following right behind you.
I know BC from the Honda world and they are a quality set up. I have also been considering them and will probably go that route. I have owned both types of coilovers and preferred the fully adjustable sleeve style which both of your choices have. Good idea on doing all the other stuff while you are at it. I am not at that point mileage wise but when I get there I will be following right behind you.
torga
Autocross Champion
They're both adjustable sleeve and they both have camber plates. But what's really drawing me towards the Aeris set is that they come with Swift springs for $1,200. BC BR coils with optional Swift springs would be $1,350-$1,400.
I'm coming up on 123k mi, so I'm sure a bunch of that stuff needs to be replaced. I hear light clunking under certain turning conditions, so fresh stuff should fix that (also getting adjustable endlinks). Hell, even if my car had half the miles, I'd be replacing the same stuff. I just like to know exactly what's on the car and how long it's been there.
I'm coming up on 123k mi, so I'm sure a bunch of that stuff needs to be replaced. I hear light clunking under certain turning conditions, so fresh stuff should fix that (also getting adjustable endlinks). Hell, even if my car had half the miles, I'd be replacing the same stuff. I just like to know exactly what's on the car and how long it's been there.
torga
Autocross Champion
Replaced my front position coolant pipes today.
Got rid of the cracked OEM pipes and replaced them with this 4-ply silicone kit from Spulen. Hand room was a bit of an issue, so I had to remove my throttle pipe to gain adequate access to the hose clamps and room to push fittings into hoses. Removed the accessory belt as well to avoid spilling coolant on it (which would've absolutely happened).
Burped the system for about 25min with the heater running and I'm good to go - no leaks! The Spulen hoses are very subtle - I like the aluminum hose retainer/mount they include. They actually included a second bracket, but it does not fit anywhere. Must be for compatibility with the other cars this kit fits.
Got rid of the cracked OEM pipes and replaced them with this 4-ply silicone kit from Spulen. Hand room was a bit of an issue, so I had to remove my throttle pipe to gain adequate access to the hose clamps and room to push fittings into hoses. Removed the accessory belt as well to avoid spilling coolant on it (which would've absolutely happened).
Burped the system for about 25min with the heater running and I'm good to go - no leaks! The Spulen hoses are very subtle - I like the aluminum hose retainer/mount they include. They actually included a second bracket, but it does not fit anywhere. Must be for compatibility with the other cars this kit fits.
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