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Anyone had to change rear wheel bearing hub yet?

ROH ECHT

K04 PLAY
Location
PDX OR
Car(s)
2007 MKV GTI
I'm hearing a new noise at the right rear...I believe it is the bearing. I priced them at $221 ea. from the dealer. Aftermarket ones are priced much lower....so much that I could get a pair for less than that dealer single hub price.

My question is if one of you have already changed these...which ones did you install....and your opinion on the quality?

http://www.1aauto.com/2007-volkswagen-gti-rear-wheel-bearings-and-hubs/y-mo-c/2007-686-67

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_V--2.0T/Drivetrain/Wheel_Bearings/Rear/
 

Das Gespenst

Go Kart Champion
Location
Glen Ellyn
When it comes to critical components like wheel bearings, its the last place I cheap out on. Ive only used the OEM bearings and I've already replaced all 4. Knowing how much I push my car and that someone is charging half the price for a component the holds my wheel on would not make me comfortable. Just my $.02
 

ROH ECHT

K04 PLAY
Location
PDX OR
Car(s)
2007 MKV GTI

ROH ECHT

K04 PLAY
Location
PDX OR
Car(s)
2007 MKV GTI
Cool! :thumbsup:
 

ROH ECHT

K04 PLAY
Location
PDX OR
Car(s)
2007 MKV GTI
Thank you for the heads up...good to know. I think I can gather up some leverage ;)

I got that sense as well that skf and *** would be good.
 

Natalie

Ready to race!
Location
Madison, WI
Car(s)
2007 GTI
SKF and F-A-G are both oem suppliers for bearings.

The problem most will encounter with doing this themselves isnt the torque spec but the 180 degree stretch.

We use a fence pole on a snap on 3/4" drive breaker bar.

Thank you for the heads up...good to know. I think I can gather up some leverage ;)

I got that sense as well that skf and *** would be good.

donjuan1jr - I installed some SKF bearings and only 3k miles later one of the rear (RR) SKF is making the same noise that the old which had 133k miles on it was making. The other bearing is silent. For the first 3k or so it was silent.

I assume warranty should cover this part but annoying that it failed so soon. Is there anything that we could have possibly done in error while bolting down the bearing that would cause the noise so soon? We did have to use a fence pole with a 1/2" breaker bar to remove the bolt holding the bearing on until the bolt was almost all the way out. It seems like it was really held down tight. 140lbs plust 180 degrees.

Roh echt - what did you end up going with? I assume you've had no issues with your bearings to date?
 

kruegernaut

I'm from Detroit, Man...
Location
Washington
FWIW, I replaced both rear bearings 2k miles ago. I went with SKF from ECS, and they do have OEM VAG markings on them. I also purchased the Schwaben 1/2 drive 18M triple square bit, really glad I got that.

Since I just installed these, I am concerned that you are having issues with yours. Do you run spacers and/or a really aggressive offset? As for install, the Bentley manual says 133ft lbs + 180 turn. I dont think the 7 extra foot lbs are a problem for you with a 180 degree stretch bolt though. Probably a defective part?

Anyway, I havent had any trouble with my bearings yet, but I will report back here if I do.
 

ROH ECHT

K04 PLAY
Location
PDX OR
Car(s)
2007 MKV GTI
donjuan1jr - I installed some SKF bearings and only 3k miles later one of the rear (RR) SKF is making the same noise that the old which had 133k miles on it was making. The other bearing is silent. For the first 3k or so it was silent.

I assume warranty should cover this part but annoying that it failed so soon. Is there anything that we could have possibly done in error while bolting down the bearing that would cause the noise so soon? We did have to use a fence pole with a 1/2" breaker bar to remove the bolt holding the bearing on until the bolt was almost all the way out. It seems like it was really held down tight. 140lbs plust 180 degrees.

Roh echt - what did you end up going with? I assume you've had no issues with your bearings to date?

I received SKF, but I wonder if you used new bolts or not since you did not mention them? I had one bad rear bearing that was likely due to a wreck that damaged other bits on the same side as the bad bearing was on. I know that under repairs for that wreck the rear swing arm was replaced but not the bearing. So far all is well.

Knaut...yes, you should go K04!
 

Natalie

Ready to race!
Location
Madison, WI
Car(s)
2007 GTI
I received SKF, but I wonder if you used new bolts or not since you did not mention them? I had one bad rear bearing that was likely due to a wreck that damaged other bits on the same side as the bad bearing was on. I know that under repairs for that wreck the rear swing arm was replaced but not the bearing. So far all is well.

Used new bolts that came with the kit (did both at the same time). I just wonder now if it's the bearing or another component. I'll have to get the car up and see if there is any play in the wheel. If not....:iono:
 

ROH ECHT

K04 PLAY
Location
PDX OR
Car(s)
2007 MKV GTI

Natalie

Ready to race!
Location
Madison, WI
Car(s)
2007 GTI

ROH ECHT

K04 PLAY
Location
PDX OR
Car(s)
2007 MKV GTI
New grease caps were used I assume?
Only things it could be is a poor inner seal, out of spec spindle, moisture got in, poor disc to caliper alignment, or the bearing was canted during install. So when you go back in inspect for moisture when you remove the grease cap (rust) and grease out the back side of the bearing. If neither of those two are present...you can risk another bearing and if it fails...point the finger at the spindle or brake alignment. Diagnosing these two may lead you to further search someone that specializes in brakes that can determine disc to caliper alignment, OK?

Torque should be 133 lb*ft + 180° more.
http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa..._and_installing_wheel_bearing/wheel_hub_unit/
 

Natalie

Ready to race!
Location
Madison, WI
Car(s)
2007 GTI
Since I just installed these, I am concerned that you are having issues with yours. Do you run spacers and/or a really aggressive offset?

New grease caps were used I assume?
Only things it could be is a poor inner seal, out of spec spindle, moisture got in, poor disc to caliper alignment, or the bearing was canted during install. So when you go back in inspect for moisture when you remove the grease cap (rust) and grease out the back side of the bearing. If neither of those two are present...you can risk another bearing and if it fails...point the finger at the spindle or brake alignment. Diagnosing these two may lead you to further search someone that specializes in brakes that can determine disc to caliper alignment, OK?

Torque should be 133 lb*ft + 180° more.
http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa..._and_installing_wheel_bearing/wheel_hub_unit/

kruegernaut - Stock setup, so no spacers that I know of.

Roh echt - I must just have recalled wrong on the torque. I think we got that to 133 and not 140.

Grease caps - I assume these are the "dust" caps that cover the bolt for the bearing? They've got a little green color ring around them and you tap them in with a mallet. If that's what you're referring to they were a little bit of a pain to get back on.

Not sure how the bearing could be angled or canted at all as it just slides onto the spindle and then the bolt goes in the bearing.

Grease out the backside - to clarify you mean look for grease as a sign it failed or make sure to put grease on the spindle and back side of the bearing when installing new one?
 
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