Anyone had to change rear wheel bearing hub yet?

[ROH ECHT]

kruegernaut - Stock setup, so no spacers that I know of.

Roh echt - I must just have recalled wrong on the torque. I think we got that to 133 and not 140.

1) - Grease caps - I assume these are the "dust" caps that cover the bolt for the bearing? They've got a little green color ring around them and you tap them in with a mallet. If that's what you're referring to they were a little bit of a pain to get back on.

2) - Not sure how the bearing could be angled or canted at all as it just slides onto the spindle and then the bolt goes in the bearing.

3) - Grease out the backside - to clarify you mean look for grease as a sign it failed or make sure to put grease on the spindle and back side of the bearing when installing new one?

1) - Caps, dust-grease, yes. If there was a problem with it it allows in water. ←Why the need to look for rust when you look again at the installed bearings.
2) - This would've been done by the factory with the bearing going into the hub. It would've caused a slight wobble due to prior distortion.
3) - Grease out the inner side...yes, signs it failed to retain the grease.

Did you clean everything well and inspect all races and contact surfaces for rust damage before installing the new bearings? It would be good to not install a new bearing until the cause of failure is determined or you risk a short life for the new one.

 

[Natalie]

1) - Caps, dust-grease, yes. If there was a problem with it it allows in water. ←Why the need to look for rust when you look again at the installed bearings.
2) - This would've been done by the factory with the bearing going into the hub. It would've caused a slight wobble due to prior distortion.
3) - Grease out the inner side...yes, signs it failed to retain the grease.

Did you clean everything well and inspect all races and contact surfaces for rust damage before installing the new bearings? It would be good to not install a new bearing until the cause of failure is determined or you risk a short life for the new one.

I just looked at the pictures I had taken at the time and everything was clean. NO rust inside the dust caps on the old bearings, nor on the spindle surface for which the bearing is placed.

2 - Would seem strange that there was a prior issue if it was good for 135k miles.

Makes me think that something wasn't correct when I put it on. Hope to have time to look at it this weekend. What type of grease would you use? I have some engine assembly lube but I don't know if that is ok or should strictly be used as it says for internal engine areas.

 

[ROH ECHT]

You shouldn't need any added grease that I am aware of: http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa..._and_installing_wheel_bearing/wheel_hub_unit/
And perhaps the hub assembly did have faults. Hopefully it will be replaced for that reason for you
Just make sure the spindle and especially the the base is very clean when you install the hub assembly and that it goes on flush so that the rear of the bearing's side goes flush to the spindle base (back side). If there is any debris where the bearing of the hub goes flush to the spindle base it will put the hub off center.

Perhaps a film of grease can be used about the seal ring on the grease cap before installing it to ease it on without any damage would be OK.

 

[Ich_Will]

I'm the original owner and no crashes, running into curbs, yes on the potholes but hard to not avoid those up here in MN. Just wondering what else I might check out because it would seem odd that the bearing would go that quickly. Makes me feel like it could be a different component.

I had a rear bearing go out at 36,000 miles... dealer was happy to replace. I am at 130,000 now and have had no further issues.

Aslo just noticed you are in Mpls... I'm in western WI and work in the Twin Cities.

 

[Natalie]

This is what the rear left looked like. Can't recall if I cleaned off that visible rust spot near the top of the spindle to which the hub assembly attaches... I don't recall any rust on the rear right. It looked very similar. Will hopefully have a very easy install this weekend.

Should I stay away from any roloc type pads to clean this off with my air grinder? I don't want to scratch up the surface and make the issue worse. Best way to remove any build up?

 

[ROH ECHT]

I would stay away from those mating surfaces with abrasive cleaning pads and wire wheels. Only use a brake cleaner and clean rags. If there is pitting from rust, only on the mating surfaces(the axial and inner face)...or if you feel any wobble after installing the new wheel hub....I would replace the spindle.

I am not certain but there appears to be something odd looking at about the two o'clock position where the axial surface meets the inner face. What is wrong there?

 

[Natalie]

I am not certain but there appears to be something odd looking at about the two o'clock position where the axial surface meets the inner face. What is wrong there?

Yea, the photo doesn't show that detail but it was just a little bit of rust or debris from the previous hub. I was able to brush it off with a rag before putting the new one on. Unfortunately I didn't get a lot of pictures from either install but the surface was very clean before I put the new rear left on.

Replacing the spindle seems like a large undertaking...

 

[merkeyterkey]

I did mine a couple of weeks ago, twas a breeze...

 

[ROH ECHT]

Yea, the photo doesn't show that detail but it was just a little bit of rust or debris from the previous hub. I was able to brush it off with a rag before putting the new one on. Unfortunately I didn't get a lot of pictures from either install but the surface was very clean before I put the new rear left on.

Replacing the spindle seems like a large undertaking...

If the new bearing holds...then great! :thumbsup:
But if it fails again, prematurely, then you may have to. :yikes:

This is what I see as a distorted surface...it may be nothing...only time will tell:

 

[Natalie]

I did mine a couple of weeks ago, twas a breeze...

What did it involve?

 

[merkeyterkey]

What did it involve?

eh?

 

[Natalie]

eh?

Was it a difficult install? Did it require any special tools?

I just jacked the rear up this afternoon. Haven't replaced the bearing yet. I noticed this rust ring on the ridge of the hub. I assume it will have no affect on the noise but regardless I cleaned it up and the inside of the wheel as well and bolted it back on. Will see if there is noise tomorrow.

 

[merkeyterkey]

Was it a difficult install? Did it require any special tools?

I just jacked the rear up this afternoon. Haven't replaced the bearing yet. I noticed this rust ring on the ridge of the hub. I assume it will have no affect on the noise but regardless I cleaned it up and the inside of the wheel as well and bolted it back on. Will see if there is noise tomorrow.

Oh, my bad, I thought you've already done it.

There are 3 special tools you'll need:

M14 Triple Square
M 18 Triple square
A torque wrench that goes to 150lbs

1. Take wheel off
2. Take brake caliper off (need m14 triplesquare)
3. Take brake rotor off
4. Remove "axle bolt" (need m18 triplesquare) (gotta take off that metal dust shield thing)
5. Replace hub, use new axle bolt & torque to 130lbs + 1/2 turn (will need big breakerbar of somesort

There's a lot of information if you google "mkv rear bearing diy". Dont forget, you can't reuse that axle bolt, if you take it out you'll have to torque a brand new bolt in.

 

[Natalie]

Oh, my bad, I thought you've already done it.

Sorry for the confusion. I have done each of the rears. I was referring to replacing the spindle. Thought that was what you were referring to...

 

[Natalie]

The rust from my earlier picture on the hub shouldn't be an issue? After a lot of other projects winter is almost here in Minneapolis. Time to get the bearing replaced and the snow tires on before the snow this week.